Jan Bilton: Flower power returns to the plate (+recipes)

Tarragon Chicken with Garden Flowers

Flowers are back in favour. After a decade of pansy, marigold and daylily dish decorations in the 80s, the use of flowers, either in cooking or as food frills, was looked upon with disdain for the next 20 years. But what goes around comes around. Edible garden garnishes have returned.

The use of flowers and herbs in cookery can be traced back to Roman times. They were popular (and still are) in medicines and Chinese and Indian recipes, and plates gaily decorated with flowers were particularly prevalent during Queen Victoria's reign.

It is important that all the flowers and herbs you serve are pesticide-free. They should also be allergy-free, non-toxic and preferably organically grown. Check a good garden reference book or a reliable website for information on any plants you may be unsure about. Some varieties of the same species may not be edible so it is best to reference them by their botanical name.

Nasturtiums (tropaeolum majus and minus) are readily available and grow easily in pots and on banks. The young leaves add a peppery taste to green salads and the flowers are wonderful in a salad or sprinkled on top. The large green seeds are also a substitute for capers.

Pansies (viola x wittrockiana) make a great addition to a green salad, a pate or dessert. The petals have a lettuce-like flavour, the whole flower a more bitter taste. There are several varieties of the smaller viola and these I frequently crystallise for cake decorations.

Borage flowers (borago officinalis) come in blue, pink and white and are an excellent complement for drinks either as is or frozen in ice cubes. Enjoy in moderation as they can have a diuretic effect.

Marigolds (tagetes patula) should only be eaten occasionally. The petals have a hint of citrus and are attractive sprinkled over green salads.

Other common edible flowers include: calendula (calendula officinalis), impatiens (impatiens walleriana), daylily (hemerocallis, use petals only), and cornflower (centaurea cyanus). Herb flowers include: basil (use sparingly), coriander, mint and chives (petals or florets only as the whole flower is overpowering). Edible vegetable flowers include: courgettes, pumpkins and runner beans (only phaseolus coccineus).

RECIPES

TARRAGON CHICKEN WITH GARDEN FLOWERS

Rinse and gently pat dry the flowers and herbs before garnishing the chicken.

2 large skinned and boned chicken breasts
4 tbsp each: ricotta cheese, ground hazelnuts
2 tbsp chopped tarragon leaves
salt and pepper to taste
4 long rashers streaky bacon
1-2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine

Garnishes: sprigs tarragon, oregano, violas, cornflours, pansy petals, marigold petals, baby beetroot leaves

Preheat the oven to 180C.

Halve each chicken breast lengthwise. Make a pocket in the side of each. Combine the ricotta, hazelnuts, tarragon, salt and pepper. Stuff into the pockets. Starting at one end and ending at the other, wrap a bacon rasher around each breast. Secure with a cocktail stick, if preferred.

Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan. Gently saute the breasts on all sides until lightly coloured. Cover and place in the oven for about 12 minutes, until cooked.
Remove to a warm platter and cover. Add wine to pan and bring to the boil.

Slice the chicken breasts and place on serving plates. Spoon the wine over the chicken. Garnish the plates with flowers and herbs. - Serves 4.

NASTURTIUM SALAD WITH BALSAMIC DRESSING

Wash and crisp the lettuces before tearing into bite-size pieces.

Balsamic dressing: 1 clove garlic
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salad: 6 cups torn mixed lettuce eg red sails, endive, buttercrunch
6 small nasturtium leaves
1 cup watercress sprigs
2-3 nasturtium flowers to garnish

Cut garlic in half and rub over the surface of small bowl. Whisk in mustard and vinegar. Drizzle the oil into the vinegar whisking constantly, until smooth.

Place half the dressing in the base of a salad bowl and add lettuce leaves, nasturtium and watercress. Toss the leaves gently to coat in the dressing. Garnish with nasturtium flowers and serve immediately. Serve the remaining dressing on the side. - Serves 4-6.

STUFFED COURGETTE FLOWERS

If you don't grow your own, ask your local greengrocer to procure some or visit a farmers' market.

8 courgette flowers, each with a small piece of the courgette attached, if possible
4 pitted Kalamata olives, diced
4 large basil leaves, sliced
100g ricotta cheese
4 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs
Batter: 1/2 cup plain flour
salt and white pepper to taste
1 tbsp olive oil
1/3 cup soda water
1 egg white, stiffly beaten
canola oil for deep frying

Carefully remove the stamens from the flowers. Combine olives, basil, ricotta and breadcrumbs. Spoon into the centre of each flower. Twist the petals to enclose the filling.
To prepare the batter, place the flour, salt and pepper in a bowl. Whisk in the oil and soda water. Fold in the egg white.

Heat the oil until a faint haze rises. The temperature should be about 180C.

Dip two flowers at a time into the batter and deep-fry quickly. Drain on paper towels.
Great sprinkled with flaky sea salt and lemon wedges. - Serves 4 as a starter.

BROCCOLI & MARIGOLD COMBO

1 head broccoli, broken into florets
25g butter
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
3 tbsp marigold petals
Steam the broccoli florets until just tender.

Meanwhile, Melt the butter with the lemon juice. Add the garlic and petals.
Drain the broccoli and turn into the bowl. Drizzle with the butter mixture and toss gently to coat. - Serves 4.