Gardening: Autumn ideal time to plant camellias - Gareth Carter

A well-known Camellia reticulata is Dr Clifford Parkes which has large bold semi-double scarlet red flowers.

OPINION

The autumn season is progressing with many early-flowering sasanqua-type camellias coming into flower.

These early bloomers capture my attention and are becoming increasingly used as flowering hedges, as well as specimens in borders where they offer height and backdrop for other plantings.

Smaller-growing varieties have become popular in small gardens and patio areas for growing in pots.

Camellias are such a versatile plant, offering a consistent green in a garden; they keep their form without regular trimming, are not susceptible to many pests and diseases, provide tidy structure and form, have lovely flowers and are generally pretty hardy.

Many varieties flower during the winter months when there is little other colour in the garden which is another bonus for this winner of a plant. The flowers may be single, double or semi-double and pink, red, sometimes white or mixtures of all three. There are a few creamy-yellow varieties too.

There are a few camellia types within the family.

Camellia sasanqua: The sasanqua types have branches that are more willowy in appearance with leaves slightly smaller than the japonica types. These are very hardy and are the first flowering of the camellia season, beginning in April. By the time the japonicas begin to take centre stage, they have mostly finished flowering. They produce an abundance of blooms, usually smaller in size than japonica types and sometimes fragrant, in a full range of colours from white through pink to red. They have great versatility. Some varieties are highly desirable as hedge plants, some are more spreading in their growth habit (Mine-no-yuki) and can be used as ground covers in semi-shady positions. Some can also be easily espaliered. Smaller-leaved varieties look great trained into topiary forms.

Sasanquas are more tolerant of sun than japonicas. Popular varieties include Setsugeka (pure white with yellow stamens), Early Pearly (pure white) and Yuletide (orange–red). The sasanqua-type camellias are ideally suited to be grown as a flowering hedge or screening plant.

Camellia japonica: There are thousands of named cultivars of all flower forms and colours. They are particularly hardy. Their foliage is glossy deep green. A careful selection can provide continuous flowering for up to six months of the year. Flower sizes vary from miniatures under 5cm across to the flamboyant 20cm doubles, all great for a garden display or floral art. Popular varieties include takanini (deep dark red) and brushfields yellow (white with a pale yellow centre). Camellia waterlily is a hybrid with medium-sized formal double blooms of bright pink.

Camellia hybrids: These are combinations of breeding between sasanquas, japonicas and reticulatas, giving some brilliant varieties in flower, form, foliage and sometimes scent. Camellia quintessence is one of these hybrids; this plant has a small, spreading miniature growth habit. There are many others such as Black Lace, Cinnamon Cindy, Fairy Blush, First Prom, Hawaii, Nicky Crisp, Royal Velvet, Ruby Wedding, Spring Festival, Sun Song, Sweet Emily Kate, Tamzin Coull and Water Lily. Tom Knudsen is a hybrid, japonica cross with reticulata.

Camellia reticulata: These are the largest-flowering of all camellias. The plants are often not as tight in their growth habit with large serrated green foliage. They are not as widely grown or available. A well-known reticulata is Dr Clifford Parkes which has large bold semi-double scarlet red flowers.

Camellias generally grow very well in a position offering some protection from coastal winds and with some shade offering protection from the hottest of the summer sun. Camellias grow best in fertile soil conditions, preferring soil that is well-drained but moisture-retentive and slightly acidic. The best soils range from good loam to sand well enriched with peat (good quality organic compost can be used too but beware many bagged composts have an alkaline pH so are not suitable).

Basic planting guidelines

Sand and free-draining loam soils: The planting hole should be a little more than double the depth of the root ball and about three times as wide. Thoroughly mix a roughly equal amount of organic compost or peat with a slow-release fertiliser, such as Ican Slow Food, into the soil you remove from the planting hole

Heavy and wet soils: There are three options for planting:

Use organic matter or compost to improve the soil quality and plant the camellia high with the top of its root ball above the soil surface and mulch around it to cover any exposed roots. The elevated planting will allow better drainage of water from the root zone.

If you want to plant several camellias in these soil conditions, a good procedure is to create raised beds, filling the beds with a mixture of soil, good quality compost and free-draining material such as garden mix containing pumice granules that will be more to the roots’ liking.

Camellias are one of the best plants for long-term residence in containers, whether you want just one or two as accent plantings or a larger portable collection. Use a good quality potting mix such as Ican Premium Potting Mix or Tui Pot Power. Put enough into the container so that the top of the root ball is about 30mm below the rim of the container. Fill in around the roots with more potting mix, firming by hand, and water thoroughly until the water flows freely from the drainage holes.

Clay soils, though they are moisture-retentive, offer the least friendly conditions for camellia roots because the particles are so small and tightly packed that drainage is extremely slow and roots can remain saturated and suffocate from a lack of soil air, causing death of the plant. This especially occurs on level clay sites. Clay soils on a slope or hillside can be more accommodating because drainage is downslope and the roots are less likely to be in prolonged saturation.

You can improve the drainage and aeration of clay soils by adding copious amounts of organic matter and gypsum, a neutral pH form of lime that flocculates fine clay soil particles into a more crumbly structure. The problem often remains that the clay soil around the improved soil will prevent the water from draining away quickly enough and can create a “bathtub” effect.

Autumn is a great time to plant camellias so call into a garden centre and browse the selections available. If you haven’t got any in your garden, find one to include, be it a backdrop, a filler shrub or a patio container specimen – there will be one to suit.

For more gardening information visit www.springvalegardencentre.co.nz

* Gareth Carter is general manager of Springvale Garden Centre.