Hobby horses, fancy football and hinterland hikes: on day 4, New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria broke a sweat.
The day began with two offsite events.
In the Beyond the Runway speaker series, award-winning fashion writer Emma Gleason spoke to Josh Heares of Porter James Sports, Mike Beagley of
At Gallery Ne Guerra, Jasmin Sparrow teamed up with artist Jade Townsend to hold a presentation of jewellery and art.
The Future of Fashion runway platformed eight emerging designers on the country’s biggest runway, and a show of athleticism was present across many of the major showings.
Zambesi closed out the day with ‘Instrumental’ at Shed 10 with impeccable tailoring, delicate lace and dresses that caught the light.
Reflecting the link between what is seen on the runway and the commercial trade, Zambesi announced to a crowd of their “Zamfam”gathered at their after party they would be opening a new flagship store at Commercial Bay, Auckland shortly.
Elisabeth Findlay, Founder and Designer says, “Our new space will reflect the essence of Zambesi: intelligent design, enduring style, and garments that tell a story. We’re looking forward to welcoming new and loyal customers into the space and continuing to be part of their lives.”
The store will be located on the ground floor of Commercial Bay and is set to open in Spring 2025.
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Advertise with NZME.Trend: Enya’s Orinoco Flow rang out at the closing of Untouched World, the first runway show of the day. Her melodic “sail away” was the starting whistle for a day of athletic aspiration.
Untouched World’s show was serene and earthy, imagining their cossetting woollens in the great outdoors, styled with riding boots, wide-brim hats, sailor-knot neckerchiefs and freshly plucked flowers. The finale look, a heritage jumper with pounamu overlayed, urged consideration of the unique relationships to the flora and fauna in Aotearoa (as Moira Te Whata steers the label into a “new creative chapter”).
At The Future Of Fashion, emerging designers displayed takes on motorcycle leather, showcased functional, blossoming swimsuits and dressed models in five-toed Vibram shoes.
The line between fashion and function was blurred off-site at Soul Bar & Bistro, with Auckland FC’s kit launch. The show was brought together in collaboration with New Balance and fashion students at Whitecliffe College. With only 10 days to bring together their designs, the students were inventive in their imaginings. Football nets were fashioned to resemble macrame skirts and jerseys were cut into subversive asymmetric tops.
Of course, Karen Walker’s high-octane display played the game, too. Models jumped hurdles, wove between road cones and jogged through a tire run.
There was even a gesture towards motion at Zambesi’s moody show, as the first model on the runway took a moment to sway to the music.
Biggest moment: Karen Walker is back on the horse. Her first showing in 15 years was an absolute spectacle, with positive intention.
READ: Karen Walker’s Return To The New Zealand Fashion Week Runway Was Chaos, Just As She Planned
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Advertise with NZME.Runway playlists: A finalist in the Future Of Fashion show, John Tanuvasa’s OHN signalled a sharp uptick in energy with a model mouthing the words to Beyonce’s Alien Superstar. More than a little bit sassy, the sunglass-wearing model set the tone for the rest of the celebratory presentation – replete with bursts of hot pink, gorpcore styling and Western references. Models stepped boldly to pop hits, including Truth or Dare by Tyla, Promiscuous Girl by Nelly Furtado, 365 by Charli XCX and Wait A Minute by The Pussycat Dolls, which had guests bopping along in time to the music in their seats.
For reference: Or reference point, rather, with all eight designers who showed in the Future Of Fashion showcase making a hallowed debut at New Zealand Fashion Week. A moment we’re sure to look back on, given each bold talent’s bright future, each designer left an indelible mark on this year’s week-long festivities.
Overheard at NZFW: “What a luxury, a three-course meal at fashion week!”
Unexpected moment: Karen Walker’s audience sat through the entirety of The Stars of Track and Field by Belle and Sebastian, before the first model stepped onto the runway. The song captured her point, about obstacles, the importance of challenges and the joy possible in overcoming them.
“Could I write a piece about you now that you’ve made it? About the hours spent, the wilderness in your training.”
Beauty highlight: The beauty looks at Karen Walker were the perfect antidote to the barely-there bases of day two and three. Instead, models wore negative space eyeliner, which framed upper and lower lashes in vibrant shades of royal blue, hot pink and bright yellow. In some cases, the liner played peekaboo under oversized sunglasses, otherwise it stood strongly on its own. Karen Walker worked with hot tool partner Shark Beauty on two distinct hair looks, the brainchild of award-winning hairstylist and creative hair director for Shark Beauty, Sara Allsop. The first celebrated voluminous texture with two soft buns that sat proudly atop models’ heads, a look that lends what Sara describes as a “softness and cinematic charm”. The second was both smooth and textured, with low slung double buns that sat at the nape of models’ necks and bobbed joyfully as they jumped over hurdles or sidestepped tyres.
On the menu: A welcome addition to what was undoubtedly the busiest day on the New Zealand Fashion Week Kahuria schedule thus far, a three-course meal at Soul Bar & Bistro at Auckland FC Kit Couture. A bright blue cocktail lay waiting on arrival – the AFC Forever – which contained a blend of blueberry, spiced rum, bourbon, orgeat, blue curacao, clarified milk and sweet pineapple foam. On the table, dusty apron ciabatta served with salted butter, followed by an entree of tuna tartare, Calabrian chilli, oyster mayo atop a potato galette. Guests could take their pick of two mains – either the roasted hapuku, pea puree, sugar snap salad and mint, or the chicken breast served with broccolini, yuzu and miso beurre blanc. A tight schedule meant our Fashion Week team had to dash across town before dessert was served – a sweet banoffee pot.
Shoe of the day: Tyson and Ash were gifted a pair of New Balance trainers to don to the Auckland FC Kit Couture show, of which the brand was a presenting partner. For Ash, a pair of black and cement 9060s, and Tyson a high-shine silver pair of 1000s. They came in handy for the necessitated sprint we made down the waterfront in time for Karen Walker’s 6pm show.
At Sarah Street’s Bronwyn, models shopped the runway in real time, as pairs of heels were plucked from plinths and placed gently into oversized totes slung from shoulders. Picks of the season include sandals adorned with brightly hued orchids, thongs dressed up with a row of shell beads or sculptural block heels.
Spotted in the FRow: Taika Waititi took a seat for Karen Walker’s show, rather than walking the runway as he did at Monday night’s opening show Into the Archives. Karen’s new collection is a collaboration with Adidas but Taika perhaps didn’t get the memo – he was wearing Nike’s. Celebrity chef and restaurateur couple Josh and Helen Emett were seated next to him. Anna Reeve – who modelled in the show – had lots of support in the audience. Her childhood best friend and Two Islands co-founder Julia Matthews was front row and Anna’s husband, broadcaster and Pal’s co-founder Jay Reeve, also watched on. Viva also spotted ZM host and comedian Hayley Sproull, having a fantastic time.
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