To prune in June

Pruning is the selective removal of specific plant parts with a sharp tool - from whole branches to shoots, buds, fruit, seed pods and roots to keep your plants healthy. Done at the right time of the year and with good tools this process allows the plant to make a speedy recovery. Think of it like this - if an animal wound heals then a plant wound seals.

The three "T"s of pruning to consider before you go hacking your way through the undergrowth of your garden are Timing, Tools and Technique.

WHY PRUNE?

To remove any dead or damaged growth which, incidentally, can be done at any time of year.

To establish, train and shape young plants and promote growth.

To improve flowering and fruiting by increasing light and air circulation, particularly in fruit trees.

To obtain manageable-sized plants and encourage prolific and regular fruiting.

To rejuvenate old shrubs and trees, especially if they're ugly or leggy.

To prevent personal injury or property damage with out-of-control branches like my lower plum tree limbs which do a good job of trying to wipe the husband off the ride-on mower!

WHEN TO PRUNE

This advice applies specifically to Northland and if in doubt prune straight after flowering with shrubs, straight after fruiting with stone fruits (peaches and plums around April depending on the variety) prune standard and patio roses come June or July but leave the climbing roses alone until their hips are formed.

Citrus need little or no pruning bar the removal of dead wood and a little cosmetic shaping and good old hydrangeas should be pruned back to the second healthy pair of leaf buds when they finish flowering and that's right now! Rule of thumb? Cut back by one third.

TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE

It is seriously worth investing in good quality tools.

Bypass pruners have overlapping sharpened curved scissor-like blades that can cut shoots and twigs up to 2.5cms.

Anvil pruners have a straight upper blade that cut against a flat lower plate that can tackle larger twigs but tend to crush stems.

Long handled lopping shears can tackle higher branches.

Pole pruners reach further still.

Curved pruning saws for the thicker branches.

Chainsaws for when huge limbs need removing.

Hand shears or a hedge trimmer can be used on perennials like lavender to keep the bed neat and promote healthy regrowth.

To keep blades of all pruning tools sharp, dry and wipe with an oily rag every time they are used. Sharp blades mean straight cuts and quicker recovery so always cut the plant cleanly on an angle to allow water run- off, leaving a clean edge not a ragged one.

Remember, one can always cut more, but not less - so cut a little at a time and then stand back and observe your work. Begin by practising on some of your least favourite shrubs. Have fun and watch the results burst forth in spring.

NOTE - Last month we referred to Kereru (wood pigeon) in our story on local wildlife. That's what it's known as nationally. In Northland we have a special name for these majestic birds - the Kuku or Kupara. Many thanks to some readers for pointing this out.