Northland Age
  • Northland Age home
  • Latest news
  • Sport
  • Rural
  • Opinion
  • Kaitaia weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • Sport
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology

Locations

  • Far North
  • Kaitaia
  • Kaikohe
  • Bay of Islands
  • Whangārei

Weather

  • Kaitaia
  • Whangārei
  • Dargaville

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Northland Age

Epic waka voyage is finally over

Northland Age
20 May, 2013 09:13 PM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Two ocean-going waka have returned to Doubtless Bay after a 10-month, 10,000 nautical mile journey to Rapanui (Easter Island) and back.

The epic journey was a long-held dream of Doubtless Bay master waka-builder Hekenukumai Busby, whose vessels have now sailed all three sides of the Polynesian Triangle linking Aotearoa, Hawaii and Rapanui. The sailors used only the sun, stars, moon, currents and marine life to guide their way.

The waka hourua and their 20 storm-battered sailors arrived at Whatuwhiwhi on Friday night, the first, Ngahiraka Mai Tawhiti, at 11.40pm, followed by Te Aurere three hours later. They anchored a few hundred metres offshore, clearing Customs at Mill Bay around 9am on Saturday before continuing the last few kilometres under motor to Mr Busby's property at Aurere.

The return journey had taken them via Tahiti and Rarotonga, with a break at Moorea to avoid the cyclone season.

Just a few hundred metres from their goal, however, the two waka stuck fast in the Awapoko River after the sailors missed the 2pm high tide. With the water still dropping the crew eventually gave up their attempts to pull the vessels free, making their entrance instead on a ceremonial waka sent out to escort them up the river.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

They were greeted by a cacophony of haka, putatara (conch shells) and pukaea (wooden trumpets) from hundreds of people on the riverbank, including almost the entire roll of Bay of Plenty school Te Wharekura o Tauranga Moana. Many sailors on the Waka Tapu (sacred canoe) expedition, including chief navigator Jack Thatcher, hail from Tauranga.

Their welcome doubled as the opening ceremony for a new campus of the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, teaching the ancient arts of waka-building and navigation.

Institute director and Waka Tapu organiser Karl Johnstone said it was "a pretty epic voyage deep into the heart of the Pacific" and a catalyst for reviving connections to the rest of Polynesia. Most New Zealand cultures had arrived by sea, yet Kiwis had become a land-locked people.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"When we look at the ocean we see it as a barrier, instead of seeing it as a continent in itself, a pathway," he said.

Mr Johnstone said challenges on the journey included a storm on the last leg from Rarotonga, which sent the waka into an eight-day circle and left a few sailors with broken ribs. One crew member was treated on arrival at Mill Bay by St John medics for dehydration. Each waka had 10 to 12 sailors on board at any one time. In total 60 people took part, aged 18 to 67 and from many different iwi. Northlanders included captain Stanley Conrad (Te Kao).

Te Runanga o Te Rarawa chairman Haami Piripi said the journey was a powerful re-expression of Maori identity, and fulfilled Mr Busby's aspiration of following in the footsteps of his ancestor, Tumoana, who returned to Hawaiki.

"But it's become much more than that. It's a renaissance of a whole genre of skills, knowledge and culture relating to the sea," he said, adding that it had also rekindled relationships with Maoridom's Pacific cousins.

An emotional Mr Busby said he was proud of the sailors who had fulfilled his dream of more than 25 years. The 81-year-old flew to Rapanui to be on board Te Aurere when the waka arrived at their destination.

Mr Thatcher said that he was looking forward to seeing his wife and daughter again, as well as the everyday Kiwi things he had done without for 10 months, although the voyage's final leg to Rapanui had been like a fairy tale.

"We had contrary winds all the way, but coming in to Rapanui this corridor opened up and we just speared through the winds. If that wasn't our tupuna guiding the way for us I don't know what it was."

His daughter, Tarere Thatcher, suspected that even the sailors had yet to realise the scale of their achievement.

She had seen her father only fleetingly since the waka left Auckland in August, and was looking forward to catching up. Sailing traditional waka was his passion, and the voyage had meant a lot to him.

Her first words to her father were: "Hello old man, you need a shave."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Te Aurere has come home - page 2

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Northland Age

Northland Age

NZ Highwaymen wrap up epic tour with final show in the Far North

11 Jun 12:00 AM
Northland Age

Not-guilty plea: Murder accused remanded over Catalya's death

10 Jun 11:52 PM
Northland Age

'A lot of rain' - Severe thunderstorm watch in place for Northland

09 Jun 10:32 PM

Why Cambridge is the new home of future-focused design

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Northland Age

NZ Highwaymen wrap up epic tour with final show in the Far North

NZ Highwaymen wrap up epic tour with final show in the Far North

11 Jun 12:00 AM

The NZ Highwaymen will debut in Hokianga with their final show on June 14.

Not-guilty plea: Murder accused remanded over Catalya's death

Not-guilty plea: Murder accused remanded over Catalya's death

10 Jun 11:52 PM
'A lot of rain' - Severe thunderstorm watch in place for Northland

'A lot of rain' - Severe thunderstorm watch in place for Northland

09 Jun 10:32 PM
‘It was more than a chair’: Kāeo cafe closure leaves a mark

‘It was more than a chair’: Kāeo cafe closure leaves a mark

09 Jun 07:00 PM
Clean water fuelling Pacific futures
sponsored

Clean water fuelling Pacific futures

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • The Northland Age e-edition
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Subscribe to The Northland Age
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The Northland Age
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • What the Actual
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven CarGuide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP