This meant some strategy initially.
Martinborough, with its iconic hotel, was first up. Sitting on a prominent corner of Union Square,the hotel is not only a popular place to stay, it's a haunt for locals to meet over a cold ale and wine —bar dishes on the side. Rooms epitomise the hotel's authenticity and history, while its bistro and bar has been named in Cuisine Magazine's Top 100 NZ restaurants. Accommodation packages vary, depending on if meals are included. Rated four stars and affordable, it was on my upper tier as the starting point, however.
I didn't stay, though I did hang out with a glass of cold rose to wash down a plate of calamari. Sitting outside, watching life drift by, it was whimsical dreaming about a night's stay there. A budget motel around the corner turned out to be the bed of choice. I was only going to sleep there, after all.
Greytown was next. Two hotels in the main street meant a coin toss — The White Swan Country Hotel or the historic Top Pub Greytown. The four-star White Swan — sorry, four and a half-star hotel — was named after the S.S. White Swan, which shipwrecked in 1862 along the Wairapapa coastline. Originally a railways admin building in Lower Hutt, it was moved to Greytown in 2002-03 in six pieces. Sensitively converted, this boutique hotel is now a Greytown landmark. The hotel offers everything from a one night stay to deluxe packages with meals and wine.
Needless to say, this didn't make my list either, though I did wander in for another tantalising glass of Martinborough rose — with dessert this time.
I opted to spend my four nights a little further down the main street, in The Top Pub, Greytown Hotel. A bargain —$90 a night. OK, it was shared bathroom facilities but, hey, nothing a little self- management can't handle.
If walls could talk, this pub would have some wild stories to tell. It's Wairapapa's oldest pub. Built in 1860, it has been the locals' haunt ever since, even those from far and wide. Beer on tap includes Wairapapa's much- loved Tui and a good Irish stout and it has that welcome ambience of a working men's club. There's a bit of Irish history here as well — lively banter, music and top pub food to boot. Four nights, $360 — bargain.
It all culminated in one last night of sheer indulgence embraced by the decadent luxury of Featherston's Royal Hotel. Checking the suites online is one thing. Seeing them in all their glory is totally different. This hotel is an eye-opener.
As a town, Featherston pales into insignificance compared with Martinborough and Greytown. OK, it is New Zealand's official book town and does have its own history as a former mining camp and rail station. It just helps if the place is actually open.
Hint: If visiting in the off-peak season, avoid Monday or Tuesday. It will probably be shut. Even the Fell Rail Museum's doors were closed.
The Royal made up for it. Photos don't do my suite's justice. Think steampunk. Moody chandelier lighting, plush, full-length velvet drapes, faux fur spreads and captivating artwork. Each suite is individually themed and named after literary identities. It's the stuff of theatrical drama, the dreamy ambience of being transported into a romantic mystery novel. Worth every cent. As was the fireside dinner and cocktails.
Questioning staff how on earth a hotel of this calibre survives — in Featherston of all places — the response was a surprise, although on reflection, not really. Being a short hop over the Rimutakas from Wellington, this hotel, with its various entertainment options, is a regular weekend escape for Wellingtonians. Duh! Featherston's almost a satellite town, particularly with the Remutaka rail trail tunnel luring cyclists.
Apparently more is in store for this former mining camp. Can't wait! While certainly not the only grand hotel offering accommodation in Wairapapa, the Royal's unique flavour and distinctive invitation was a divine end to this eclectic region. A return visit is definitely in order.
MORE:
www.martinboroughhotel.co.nz
www.greytownhotel.co.nz
www.thewhiteswanhotel.co.nz
www.theroyalhotel.co.nz
