Speaking of fire, torch-lighting remains a time-honoured tradition in Hawaiian culture and burns bright into the night around Waikīkī. Most hotels and resorts along the glitter strip will ignite their gas-lit torches at dusk, but the most spectacular ceremony takes place at the far end of Waikīkī at the adjoining Kūhiō Beach Hula Mound. The torch-lighting ceremony and free hula show is an hour-long performance that bursts into life at 6pm, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
If you happen to be in town on a Friday, the weekly fireworks display is another spectacle to add to the list.
Wrap your lips around a lunchtime staple, loco moco, at the Rainbow Drive-In. This Waikīkī institution has been fawned over by locals for 60 years. Follow it up with a legendary strawberry slush float, or what we could call a spider. You'll find it on Kapahulu Ave, which is like Waikīkī's back road, a world away from the bling bling of Kalākaua Ave. This easily-strollable street brims with Mom and Pop enterprises and over 40 small eateries, like Leonard's Bakery — a must for the oven-fresh malasadas. These sweet and airy balls of deep-fried dough coated in sugar were introduced to Hawai'i by Portuguese plantation workers in the late 1800s. They remain a signature treat in Hawai'i today.
As does that heat-busting icon of Hawai'i, Shave Ice, universally adored and so soft, it's like eating fresh-flavoured snow, drowned in rainbow-bright syrup. Like so many other iconic treats, Shave Ice also has a plantation past, with Japanese workers shaving blocks of ice to cool down from the heat of the day.
Sweet-toothed aficionados cannot visit O'ahu without devouring a Dole Whip, which is not actually ice-cream, but a dairy-free soft serve pineapple sorbet. Sample this heavenly treat at its birthplace, the Dole Plantation, but be warned that a scoop of this stuff will set you back NZ$11. It's worth every lick! www.gohawaii.com/nz
Few Waikīkī experiences can beat the buzz of waking up to a bird's eye view of that fabled crescent of silken sands. I had the pleasure of luxuriating within the stylish embrace of the Sheraton Waikiki, which has just celebrated its golden anniversary. The property recently unveiled a full refurbishment of all 1636 guestrooms, which proved to be a timely pandemic project. My Oceanfront King felt fresh, spacious and contemporary with a magnificent lanai, or patio, which is where I lingered regularly, drinking in that champagne vista all the way to Diamond Head.
Sheraton Waikiki is acclaimed for its two oceanfront swimming pools. The main deck with a water slide attracts families, while the infinity edge pool is designated for adults and enjoys the distinction of being North America's longest oceanfront infinity pool. www.marriott.com
I flew to Honolulu from Auckland with Hawaiian Airlines. I love their disarming, chilled and friendly style of customer service — utterly professional but irresistibly informal. Offering an unrivalled network of services across the Hawaiian Islands, and onward flights to 15 mainland USA destinations fleet of A330s, economy seating didn't feel too restricting, although for extra comfort, upgrade for more legroom, priority boarding and an upgraded amenity kit and meal. If you're shopping up a storm, you're in luck — Hawaiian offers economy passengers a generous 32kg luggage allowance. The airline is also proud of its bragging rights as the only US carrier offering complimentary meals on domestic services. For sharply-priced fares and flights to suit, head to www.hawaiiaairlines.com
