Tramping a far north gem

Walking on water: \Crossing Waitohoro Lagoon.

IT WAS time to tackle another of the tramping tracks this beautiful country offers so instead of heading south, for once we decided to explore the Far North.

Te Paki Coastal walk is a hidden gem. It’s a three to four-day hike that can be tramped either way. Our team of nine — six from Matawai, one from Tolaga Bay, one from Gisborne and one from Cambridge — opted to start at Spirits Bay which is between North Cape and Cape Reinga and end at Te Paki Stream, near Waitiki Landing, an hour and a half north of Kaitaia.

After been dropped off by the lovely ladies from Waitiki Landing, we hoisted our packs (some rather heavier than we would like) on to our backs to start the first day of our tramp which included a tiring but lovely walk along the steeply-sloping soft sandy beach to Waitohoro Lagoon.

The Department of Conservation has formed a walkway across the water which at first glance looked like some tricky moves may be needed hopping from post to post. Thank goodness it was only an illusion, as the boardwalk was still intact a few millimetres above the water.

After reaching the other side we encountered our first climb over the headland to the next bay. We glanced back at the sweeping view of glistening water and the delightful Spirits Bay before it disappeared on the descent to Pandora, our first night’s camping spot.

What a glorious bay and better still we had it to ourselves. It was so warm we had a swim before we set up camp. The quick tent-erecting lesson I had at home paid off as I didn’t disgrace myself, and I looked like a pro. Hey! There’s not much to this tenting lark.

I have to congratulate DOC on the facilities — lovely new composting toilets, a shelter with seats and benches where you can set up your cookers, and even running water over the kitchen sink. What more does a girl need, and all free. I fell in love with this spot.

It got even better with a walk to the beach to collect a few mussels to supplement the back country meal. Yum! Being the end of April, the days were short so after a chin-wag we retired to our little tents to be lulled to sleep by the waves lapping on the shore.

The second day was not a big one so there was no rush in the morning. After a beach walk at dawn and a leisurely brekkie, we broke camp to start the slow plod through manuka scrub away from the coastline to the ridge. We kept getting sneaky views of the far away sand dunes that we would meet on day three.

Steep track top Tapotupotu BayIt was an easy walk along the top and then a short but steep track dropping into Tapotupotu Bay. DOC had been busy there erecting bridging over the estuary so we arrived in camp with dry boots. This was a bigger camp ground with road access so we had to share it with the odd tourist. It was a bit windy but still warm enough for a dip in the ocean before relaxing for the afternoon.

We knew that there was another party tackling the walk from the other way and just on dusk they started to trickle in. Most of them were teenagers and they didn’t look in good shape, collapsing on to the grass exhausted. I asked the last one if she enjoyed the day and she replied: “It was the worst day of my life.”

“Oops, not looking good for tomorrow,” I thought.

The details on the website were a little sketchy as to the terrain and time factor but I kept saying to myself this was classified “easy” so it couldn’t be that hard, could it?

“My name would be mud again. I’d lose my tramping pals,” I thought to myself because I had assured them this was very do-able.

The teenagers picked themselves up and became communicative after a bit of food and rest, and assured us it was a really neat day and to beware of possums at the next campsite.

Day three was the biggie — 19km, an eight or nine-hour tramp so we decided we needed to be gone by 7.30am. The wind blew all night so I didn’t have as much sleep as I would have liked, but felt fresh enough to tackle the day.

A stop at Sandy BayThe sun was just coming up when we walked out of camp, uphill again. Gaining height quickly the views back over Tapotupotu Bay and inlet were beautiful. The track flattened out before descending into the very secluded Sandy Bay where we stopped to recharge our batteries before our second climb of the day — Cape Reinga lighthouse.

The track literally intersects the path down to the lighthouse so we dropped our packs and had a walk around the area. Out at sea the waves surged and eddied as the currents of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean met.

By now the day had deteriorated with the odd shower which added to the eeriness of the place. With time ticking by, we collected our packs and made the slow descent along the cliff edge to Te Werahi Bay. The tide was well in when we hit the beach so a small detour through the flax bushes was needed to avoid getting swept out to sea on the rocks below.

By then the sun had returned so it was a pleasant walk along our first wild west coast beach. Cape Maria Van Diemen and Motuopao Island loomed ever closer and the lighthouse disappeared in the sea mist behind us as we reached our final climb for the day, the very impressive Herati Hill.

It’s a mixture of coloured claypan with stony outcrops that have amazing lichen-crusted rocks in geometrical patterns. We followed the orange markers over the dunes admiring the views either side — Cape Maria Van Diemen to the right, the most western point of New Zealand, and to the left, well-manicured farmland.

Reaching Twilight Beach, it was again a long stroll to the end where our third camp was to be. With the disappearing sunlight and 79 steps up to the camp, the thought of a swim was not as appealing as the other nights. So it was the cold tap for me. We had made it. Wahoo! It wasn’t as bad as expected and the scenery was amazing — so varied and interesting. This really is a beautiful part of the country.

A cup of soup and a rest restored my body so I did venture down to the beach to photograph the sunset.

The fun and games started on dusk with the local possums making their appearance. We took the advice of the others and secured our food in our packs and stored them under the seats away from these inquisitive animals — well, all bar one who left hers closed, may I add, on the seat. I heard a bit of rustling in the night but thought nothing of it until all was revealed the next morning. Here was the pack with the top zip undone and all the food gone. The only evidence being the wrapper from the nut bar and the plastic bag from the scroggin. Talk about cheeky! So much for dumb possums.

Being our last day everyone was quite happy to share their food so the lady, who shall remain nameless, did not starve.

With mixed feelings about leaving this fantastic part of the country, on day four we stuffed everything in our packs and set off on the track through the stunted manuka again with views to die for — 90 Mile Beach disappearing into the sea mist in front of us and the headland and golden sands of Cape Maria Van Diemen to the north, before the impressive steps leading down to our final west coast beach.

With the gentle wind in our faces and the roar of the surf, we made our way along the deserted beach until we met buses and cars coming from the south turning into the Te Paki stream indicating our exit from the coast. We spent a pleasant hour criss-crossing the stream, dodging the bus loads of tourists making the journey to the huge sand dunes for a spot of sand-boarding, before we found the car park where our lovely ladies took us back to civilisation.

I would recommend this tramp to anyone who loves beaches, but is prepared to carry a tent. It’s a hidden gem and worth a look before the rest of the world finds it.