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Home / Gisborne Herald / Lifestyle

Small but perfectly formed

Gisborne Herald
17 Mar, 2023 06:35 PMQuick Read

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MY HOUSE, MY CASTLE: The centuries-old Schloss Vaduz towers over the city. It is the official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein and not open to visitors. Picture supplied

MY HOUSE, MY CASTLE: The centuries-old Schloss Vaduz towers over the city. It is the official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein and not open to visitors. Picture supplied

Ranked as the sixth-smallest country in the world, Liechtenstein offers a curious diversion from the well-worn tourist trail.

Nestled at the foot of forested mountains, flanking the banks of the Rhine River and studded by a hillside-clinging turreted castle, Liechtenstein's capital, Vaduz, is a visual symphony. I was eager to tick another country off my checklist, and this pin-prick of a principality with a postage-stamp sized capital, wedged between Switzerland and Austria, fitted the bill.

Fun facts? One of the world's wealthiest countries per capita, with a population comparable to Taupo. There hasn't been a murder in Liechtenstein for 15 years. They're also the world's biggest manufacturer of false teeth. Endowed with curious museums, graceful castles and elegant vineyards, what's not to love?

The beating heart of Vaduz is surprisingly chic and modern, with an alluring array of tax-free luxury-goods stores and cube-shaped concrete buildings, in the pedestrianised zone below the castle.

It's hard to miss Schloss Vaduz, which seems to come into view from all angles. The 700-year-old castle is a tale of towers and turrets, knights and legends, originally built as a fortress in the 12th century and now the official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein. It's for that reason that you can't actually visit the castle.

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Fair enough — I wouldn't want randoms rummaging through my home either. Back in town, I did admire his crown jewels in the Liechtenstein Treasure Chamber. The star attraction is the royal coronet, decorated with 26 pearls, 30 large diamonds and 99 smaller diamonds and 16 rubies. There's also the famous Apple Blossom Egg which was created by Carl Fabergé 120 years ago, and a moon rock from the Apollo 11 mission. President Nixon gifted the rock to Liechtenstein in gratitude for the work of a local vacuum technology company who provided important components for Apollo's lunar landing.

Nearby is the trusty Information Centre, where you can buy a Liechtenstein Adventure Pass, which gives you direct access to 30 attractions, plus unlimited use of the public transport network.

At the far end of Städtle (“little town” and how locals refer to the town centre) is the Cathedral of St. Florin, an 1870s neo-Gothic delight, beloved for its stained glass windows and stunning steeple. Right next door is the Parliament Building and the main square. Like a giant Lego piece, it was built using more than a million bricks, in 2008. In the heart of Städtle is Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, a black, monolithic block which houses the State Art Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art.

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To get a deeper sense of how Vaduz once looked, take a stroll around the old hillside neighbourhood of Mitteldorf, just above the town centre. You'll discover a clutch of time-worn traditional houses, flower boxes and cobblestone streets.

The star of the show is the eye-catching Red House. With its deep red hue, pretty stone tower and attached vineyard, this 14th century mansion is fairy-tale fabulous.

Wine has been grown in Liechtenstein for over 2000 years, with the first boom in production coming during the Roman occupation, before Christian monks took charge of proceedings. I definitely recommend visiting the Prince of Liechtenstein Winery, where you can wander through the vineyards and sample the excellent wines. With its four hectares of southwest-facing slopes and mild climate influenced by the warm Föhn wind, they produce superb Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Just out of town, follow your nose to the Old Rhine Bridge. This gnarly wooden construction vaults you across the upper Rhine River connecting Liechtenstein with Switzerland. A 135-metre walk gets you across the bridge. Stop halfway and plant one foot in Switzerland and the other in little Liechtenstein. Cute.

It's entirely possible to tick off the sights and delights of Vaduz in a day, but why not stay a night or two and savour some local hospitality?

Park Hotel Sonnenhof has a knock-out location on a plateau above the town, a luxury hillside retreat with dreamy views of the valley below as mountains soar above you. I loved waking up to a view of Vaduz Castle. If you're the sort of traveller who likes resting up in velvet chaise longues or fragrant rose gardens, you will love it here. The hotel's salons and guestrooms brim with medieval antiques, impressive woodwork and red velvet drapes that Cinderella herself might have sewn. The subterranean pool is covered in mosaic tiles and transports you to another world entirely.

The 29 individually designed guestrooms and suites span modern and classic design features but reserve a panorama room or junior suite for those heart-stealing views. I enjoyed the gallery of famous guests who have recently enjoyed a stay at this gorgeous boutique hotel, from Hugh Grant to Jose Mourinho.

Inspired by the changing seasons, head chef Hubertus Real and his team conjure up a wide range of excellent dishes in the hotel's renowned Restaurant Marée. You'll struggle to go past the crispy Sonnenhof Schnitzel from a saddle of veal, with cranberry chutney and potatoes. The buffet breakfast is also particularly lavish.

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