Shanks' Pony on Gili

Yula Brockob from Wainui floats down to the coral looking for tropical fish. Picture by Jolanda Kravitz

Have you ever visited Bali and been frazzled by the barrage of hawkers hustling for business? Drained by the incessant honking of scooters and cars perhaps? Then consider this: Next time you yearn for the tropics — try some gentle relief on nearby Gili Islands.

Sitting off the coast by Lombok, these islands tick the back-to-basics box. It’s a recipe dedicated to relaxation — warm seas, hot sun and little to do but bask in the natural charm. Hailed as the turtle capital of the world, the marine life lures divers and snorkellers to forage the reefs that hug these dainty dots. Gili is the definition of a small island. And, while there are gilis all around Lombok, the reference points directly to this tranquil trio.

The largest and most heavily developed, Gili Trawangan or Gili T for short, has become a stopover for the younger set — the partygoers. Which explains why its growing status has drawn comparisons with Ibiza in the early years. Gili Meno is the quietest and least developed. Its grass-roots vibe targets romantics and encourages horizontal leisure — lazing in the sun, punctuating time with swimming or snorkelling.

Gili Air’s mood sits somewhere in-between. The closest to Lombok and the original back-packer haunt of the 80s, it now dons a family disposition. And, while less developed than Gili T, Gili Air is catching up to its big brother. Gili Air Lagoon Resort opened recently —the latest accommodation to inject further sophistication into Gili Air’s eclectic charm.

No cars, no motorbikes — no worriesDiscovering its haunts is as simple as strolling around the sand-track circumference. On Gili Air, there are no cars. There are no motorbikes — no worries. Bicycles for hire? Yes. Fat tyres preferable; because in places, the sandy path can bog you down. There’s always a pony and cart — that’s ‘cidomo’ in Gili lingo. Ponies, adorned with regalia, bells and rusty bits, appear well fed.

Water, however, seems to be the one necessity nowhere in sight around the ferry dock. Try asking owners about their animals’ welfare though and English conveniently dries up. With ponies the main mode of transport for islanders, these diminutive creatures trot a regular trail around the island — no road rules on Gili Air’s only thoroughfare; and all hail to it. The rustic simplicity is refreshing.

Shanks’ Pony seemed like a good idea at the beginning. Attacking it in the midday heat probably wasn’t the best decision, but walking does keep you up close and personal with unfolding sights. Walk fast and you can circle Gili Air in around two hours. Dawdle, and the tropical heat is a persistent invitation to bar hop from one quaint stop-off to another.

When you least expect it, five-star indulgence emerges like a mirage in a shimmering heatwave. Located on Gili Air’s west side, the Grand Sunset Hotel pays homage to tropical sunsets and brags deservedly about its international cuisine at Scratch Beach Club.

There are numerous restaurants and bars to visit on Gili Air, however — happy hour a pre-requisite, mouth-watering seafood always tempting and entertainment catering for any age.

'The ferry is a blast'A jaunt to the Gilis is an easy addition on the Bali agenda. The ferry is a blast if you love the full-throttle roar of nine outboards barrelling funnels from the back of the boat. Leaving from Padangbai, up the coast from Kuta, the trip takes less than two hours — a movie length if you’re lucky.

Operators throughout Kuta’s tourist hot spots happily arrange transport to and from Padangbai. Just prepare for the clamour and haggling from food hawkers at this drop-off. Another tip: travel light with a back-pack preferably. Whatever you forget, can be bought. Sarongs and shorts are the Gili uniform.

Heaven for familiesWith the Gilis a turtle sanctuary and reefs bubbling with tropical fish, snorkelling is a must-do. Day trips are easily organised with various operators whose vessels line the shores. Glass-bottom boats zap between all three islands to the best spots, drop you on the beach at Meno for lunch and end the day before sunset graces the shores and a date with nightlife. Everything can be hired; scuba diving available for the more adventurous. Days roll into one — the relaxation is bliss.

By nightfall, Gili T is in party mode and those seeking quieter solace retreat to Gili Meno. On Gili Air, there’s choice for both — a string of beachfront bars, water lapping nearby as you sip cocktails at happy hour and savour local cuisine before deciding which haunt to head to next. Blood-moon festivals give cause for fireworks. There’s even a cinema for kids. It’s heaven for families.

Don’t wait too long. Twenty-five years ago when Wainui’s Darryn Emerre visited, there was virtually nothing on Gili Air — just sand and huts. He was surprised by the development on his return last year. Even more resorts are coming, and with them come people. In another 10 years, Gili Air could be crowded. Let’s hope the cidomos don’t cave in to cars — or motor scooters for that matter.

Shanks’ Pony is good for the soul.