One of many elaborate floats carried aloft by believers repenting their sins. Pictures by Rosa Briant
Gisborne’s Rosa Briant arrives in Guatemala on the eve of Semana Santa, the celebration of Easter . . .
I happened to arrive in Guatemala just as Semana Santa was starting and what a spectacle I saw. A week long, intensely- religious celebration of the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
Antigua, a city in Guatemala, is one of the most religious cities in Central America and the traditional festivals illustrate that fact proudly.
Local families create huge “alfombras”, or carpets, on the streets outside their houses before the many processions (or parades) to pass each day. They all get together months beforehand in order to plan and design each year’s works of art, making sure they organise all the materials well in advance.
The amazing creations are made from dyed sawdust, grass, flowers, grains, seeds, recycled trash or basically anything you could think of, and often take hours and hours to perfect.
Before the largest procession, in the early hours of Easter Sunday, the locals work for around 12 hours, throughout the night, to complete the grandest, most spectacular of the alfombras. The sights, colours and atmosphere were electric and intense!
However, this year an incredible downpour hit in the short period between the completion of the alfombras and the biggest passing procession, destroying a whole night’s work before it could be appreciated. Heartbreaking for everyone involved!
Luckily every other procession before and afterwards was met with beautiful weather.
Each procession pays homage to different parts of the story of the life and death of Jesus, with huge floats carried by hundreds of cloaked and hooded people who participate in order to repent their sins.
Each procession is followed by a marching band, the drums and horns of which create an eery energy that is accompanied by the burning of sage, frankincense and other herbs. The smoke from the herbs fills the streets so thickly that during the nighttime processions you almost feel as though you have stepped straight into some ancient land, with witches and wizards and fairies and dragons.
It is so rare and so powerful in this day and age to witness such sincere religious tradition, even for those of us who don’t share the same beliefs. It was pure magic and something I highly recommend you all add to the travel list. Just be aware that, although generally Guatemala is a very cheap country, during Semana Santa all prices absolutely skyrocket.
The other amazing thing on offer for travellers in Guatemala is a little knock-off Hobbiton village called Hobbitenango- aptly named after both Hobbiton and the iconic volcano Acatenango which is located nearby.
The village is run and maintained by local Guatemalan people and it is simply beautiful. A little taste of New Zealand when you’re far away from home can be a very cool experience. It is also a great opportunity to step a little off the beaten track, supporting the local economy and the people who need it the most.
‘Always a way to help those in need’One thing you are guaranteed to experience in Guatemala is extremely friendly people who openly greet you as you pass them in the street, will happily stop to help you out any way they can, and excitedly try to get to know you, your story, where you have been and where you are going next. Making friends and finding good conversation are two things you won’t have to look too hard for in Guatemala.
In saying all of that there are two sides to every coin. I witnessed immense poverty, alcoholism, teenage pregnancy, gang activity, and sadly many young children on the streets selling drugs. Not to mention the recent, horrific, fatal volcano eruption near Antigua, which absolutely devastated that part of the country.
What I have come to realise is that there is always a way to help those in need which doesn’t necessarily involve handing out money. If you walk with your heart open you will notice things . . . you will see see those who are hungry and could do with the little bag of peanuts in the bottom of your bag. You will see a mother or father whose child you could hold while they finish their meal or tie the shoes of their toddler who won’t stand still.
You will hear young people talking and notice they lack certain guidance or knowledge in some areas . . . and maybe you can interject a few words into their conversation, changing the trajectory of their lives forever.
Whatever, however, wherever we are, it is our duty to see, guide and support one another as we ourselves so often need the same in return.
Unfortunately, I ran out of time to travel around Guatemala as extensively as I wanted to but there are so many other beautiful places to go, volcanoes to hike and experiences to be had there. I know travellers who’ve spent three months wandering and still didn’t see everything the country has to offer.
One place I would definitely go if I ever return would be Tikal. Located in the rainforests of the north, Tikal is an ancient Mayan city of ruins, and a place of culture, beauty and history.
However, my visa was almost up and it was time to move on. I had to begin the race of a lifetime through El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua before the budding civil war in Nicaragua made passage through the country impossible . . . that story will be told in next month’s ramblings.