Redwoods and relaxation in Rotorua

Just three hours away: Rotorua — put it in your diary. Pictures by Jo Ferris

I'VE been living less than an hour from Rotorua for some years now, and you’d think a jaunt to this tourist mecca every so often would be in the diary. Sadly, it took a suggestion from my Gizzy friends to make Rotorua the destination for our annual girls’ soiree.

All credit to the head honcho who came up with the idea. The fact the usual group of 11 was reduced to eight might have had something to do with it. Close-knit accommodation for 11 women is not that easy to come by. Eight women however fit very nicely into two interconnecting rooms at Rydges Hotel. That’s tip number one.

Tip number two: try for a deal and tick the breakfast box. The morning buffet includes everything from smoothie shots, fresh fruits, yoghurt and cereal to a fully-blown English breakfast, with croissants thrown in for added indulgence — chocolate-laced if you’re really lucky. For the truly insatiable, the pancake machine will also whip up a couple of calorie-laden delicacies to wash down with coffee, tea or minted water.

Understandably, an attempt at exercise afterwards was the downside. In Rotorua, you are spoilt for choice though. Naturally, the famed Redwood Forest was on the to-do list, the new ‘treewalk’ being the drawcard. We planned to do it at night. So with a day to fill in beforehand, the other perhaps lesser known Redwoods Memorial Grove was the first trek. Based at the Hamurana Spring Recreational Reserve, this park is on the other side of Lake Rotorua, on the road that swings back to Tauranga. Easily passed, it pays to look for the golf club, rather than any sign.

It was a revelation. The 20-minute walk, depending on photographic stops, meanders through an awe-inspiring grove of magnificent redwoods. It’s a gentle stroll easily handled, even by the less able-bodied. The reserve has been under the watchful eyes of the Hamurana Springs Incorporated Society since 2003, when volunteers set about restoring, enhancing and maintaining this natural environment.

Waiariki is the area’s traditional name and the redwood trees were planted in 1919, just babes compared with the world’s oldest known redwoods that clock in at around 2200 years. While not native to New Zealand, they are worthy of their standing and Rotorua is certainly the better for them. As for the spring itself, Te Puna-a-Hangarua, we were in for another revelation when we discovered it’s the largest spring in the North Island.

Named after Hangarua, a chieftainess of Ngati Rangiwewehi, it was the lair of Hinerua, the kaitiaki taniwha. The spring’s water travels down from the Mamaku plateau through underground aquifers, a journey that takes 70 years. From there, water flows into the Kaikaitahuna River, then into Lake Rotorua, through the Ohau Channel into Lake Rotoiti to tumble over Okere Falls and down the Kaituna River to the Pacific Ocean at Maketu, which was where the Arawa canoe landed in 1350.

Sitting 280 metres above sea level, the spring is about 15 metres deep and a constant 10 degrees C. Around 4500 litres of water flow out the spring each hour, enough to fill two Olympic-sized swimming pools.

The spring’s pristine clarity is mesmerising. The temptation to toss coins into its core is irresistible and many can be seen glittering on rocks below the surface. A sign points out that in 1957, pioneer skin divers recovered more than 5000 pennies dating from around 1860. There’s no evidence of any being recovered since.

Redwoods by night

Fascinating as this was by day, the night walk amid treetops in the better-known Redwood Forest was spellbinding, albeit it a tad daunting for anyone with vertigo. At over half a kilometre, it is the world’s longest ‘living tree’ walk. Comprising a series of suspension bridges and living decks between 23 Californian redwoods up to 12 metres high, it’s an extraordinary view of the forest and undergrowth. The lanterns, made by renowned lighting designer David Trubridge, are suspended throughout the walk, along with multiple coloured spot lights. It is truly unique and attracts people in droves.

First plantings of these stately trees date back to 1901 with forestry in mind. Redwood Grove, as it was called then, was declared a memorial in 1925 to commemorate NZ Forest Service members who died in World War 1. It wasn’t until 1975, however, that the forest was officially designated a Forest Park under the Forests Act. There is so much here to discover, not just the park’s history, but its varied recreational value and sheer majesty.

With such exhausting exercise after full stomachs morning and night, no visit to Rotorua should go without a soak in the famous Polynesian Spa. Eight women, gold card discounts accepted, towels, shampoo and hair dryers supplied, sigh! Utter bliss.

Three hours from Gizzy? Put it in the diary! Mine is already full.