We were able to visit one of these schools in the Nubra Valley, Samstanling School at Sumur, which boys attend from the age of five. After completing their education at the school the boys usually continue their journey towards becoming monks at the monastery. However, there is no obligation to do so and, for this reason, the curriculum offers other subjects, in addition to Buddhist prayers, teachings and philosophy, to provide a broad-based education.
We also visited Lamdon School at Thiksey where we saw the children enjoying the facilities resulting from several projects completed in recent years (see photo below right). These buildings will be added to in the future.
Lamdon School has a hostel for students who live at a distance. At the beginning of the annual school holidays (July-September) these pupils are transported to the ends of their roads by school bus but in some cases still need to walk for several hours to reach their homes in remote valleys.
On our return to Leh we had an extra day due to weather disruptions — so we put the time to good use. We rose early and travelled to Thiksey Gompa to witness a puja in the monastery. Puja is a ceremony involving reflection, chanting and offerings. It was interesting to see the large number of young boy monks taking part.
We were then able to ascend to the roof of the building to hear two monks playing Tibetan horns (dungchen) at sunrise. Afterwards there was still time to support the local economy by purchasing souvenirs and gifts in Leh market.
All too soon our trip was over and we were boarding the plane back to Delhi. As we swooped over the valleys and mountains again, I had a wistful feeling that, unlike Tony, I would probably not return. I would love to be proved wrong.
Tony tells an amusing story about his original trek in Ladakh:
“When we first set off, we were told we could get a beer in Padum, Zanskar several days' trek away but on arrival they had run out. The same was also the case when we arrived in Lamayuru. Surely they will have beer in Leh, we thought.
“Well, the answer to that was NO! However, the hotel owner — good man of Islam — said ‘Wait!'
“Off he went and half an hour later he returned with a crate of the much sought-after beverage. He had visited his friends in the Indian military who were guaranteed to have beer even though there was none in Leh itself.
“I often use an alternative title for this trek across the Himalayas to Ladakh: ‘How I trekked 250km on the promise of a beer!' ”
