Hikoi around Mauao

NIGHTFALL: Mount Maunganui comes alight at the end of the day. Picture supplied

Mount Maunganui's iconic dormant volcano, Mauao, serves up breathtaking views from its summit.

The base track around Mauao is considered New Zealand's most popular walk, heavily trafficked by locals and visitors alike. Casting my eyes across Mauao at sun-up from the comfort of my bed, the well-tended pathways were already heaving with strollers, setting off on a virtuous early-morning workout. I preferred to take my lead from the seals snoozing on the basalt rocks edging the base track, and opted for a lazy lie-in.

Later in the day, I struck out on the base track on a two-hour guided hīkoi of Mauao, with Porina Macleod from Mauao Adventures. Porina formed the enterprise in 2016, drawing deep on her whakapapa connections with the moana and whenua. She's an inspiring champion for cultural and environmental awareness, which became self-explanatory on my guided walk around Mauao.

Some of the exotic trees are being removed from the mountainside to stop the leaf litter contaminating the springs. They are being replanted with natives, accentuating the health of the natural springs that spill forth on its side. Porina and I stopped in front of a restored spring, Waipatukakahu, a revered puna (spring), which was used to soak materials like flax to make prized fibre for the likes of clothing and rope. Evidence of trenches and ancient shell middens is a reminder that the mountain was once home to a Māori pā site.

Ancient pohutukawa trees with their root systems cling obstinately to the slopes, providing shade and support against slope erosion. (I made a mental note to return in December to savour the spectacle of the crimson blaze when they are in full bloom.) You'll glean many enriching insights about Mauao's significance to Māori, admiring the marine life, those magnificent pohutukawa, and drinking in the views, as crystal-tipped breakers crash in from the Pacific.

Fancy a soak in hot ocean water? Wind down with a dip at the Mount Hot Pools, based at the foot of Mauao. They're nearly as legendary as the mountain itself, with the hot saltwater pools wowing the crowds since the 1960s, powered by the geothermically heated ocean water 600 metres below Mauao. The complex features three outdoor pools of varying temperatures, two outdoor spas and three indoor private pools. Why not ramp up the pamper-factor after a hot soak, by indulging in a massage? I enjoyed a traditional relaxation massage, with long firm strokes melting my body stresses away, leaving me feeling utterly reinvigorated.

Mount Maunganui is generously endowed with culinary wizardry, an enormous variety of venues and exceptional local produce. Here's a round-up of some of my favourite eats. For casual street food fare, the dining strip of Maunganui Road boasts a parade of temptations. Master Kong is all about kick-ass Asian street food and handcrafted mixology. The cheeseburger spring rolls are sensational, as are the Korean beef short ribs, Gangnam-style, on duck fat fried rice. Rice Rice Baby specialises in authentic Vietnamese street food, and the décor will transport you to the streets of Saigon. Check out their vegan wontons.

One of my runaway favourites is Roxie's Red Hot Cantina, which unsurprisingly took out the People's Choice gong at this year's Bay Hospitality Awards. The fit-out's carnival of colour and playful vibe sets the stage for flavour-loaded Mexican fare and delicious cocktails. Their monster nachos are a local legend and I also highly recommend their Birria Tacos. They comprise a filling of birria beef brisket, colby jack cheese, onion and coriander in white corn tortillas, and are served with birria dipping broth. Birria is a traditional stew made from a combination of chilli pepper-based goat meat adobo, garlic, cumin, bay leaves, and thyme. Sabroso!

Taking the casual grazing to an even more chilled-out level, check out the Dine on a Lime map, which stitches together a rolling spree of eats-on-the-go in Mount Maunganui. You will find anything to suit any taste, whether you're looking for a Green Goddess Smoothie, Turkish Eggs or Black Hokey Pokey Ice-cream from Mount Made Kitchen & Creamery.

For destination dining, look no further than Fife Lane Kitchen & Bar. Stylishly appointed, this cutting-edge butcher-style restaurant is what many locals are buzzing about. Carefully selected meats from across New Zealand, plus some offshore cuts too, anchor the menu, cooked to order in their Mibrasa oven, a closed barbecue type of oven that hails from the heart of Spain. The accent is on top-quality meats and super-fresh produce, with a curated cocktail and wine menu to accentuate the experience.

On the menu, head straight to the Meat Locker (yes, you can see prime cuts hanging in the locker), where I plumped for Angus eye fillet from Taranaki's pasture-fed Greenstone Creek. There's a delicious section of sauces and butters you can add to your cut, like horseradish mousse, pinot jus, truffle crème fraiche or red wine shallot butter. Why not complement your cut with a scattering of Mibrasa grilled prawns, pan-seared scallops or crab? Don't mind if I do. Fife Lane is headline dining par excellence.