Everyone enjoys Abel Tasman track

Looking back at Awaroa from the track.

MY husband is a happy glamper, not one for carrying heavy packs, rehydrated meals and sharing a bunk room with a few dozen strangers. He was therefore happy to join me on the Abel Tasman Track where your every need is taken care of and you’re just left to enjoy it all.

We were the first to be picked up from our motel in Nelson, and as we collected more and more passengers, our hearts began to sink. Had we inadvertently signed up for a Golden Oldies’ Ramble? Most of the people didn’t look as though they would be nimbly leaping up the paths like mountain goats, and as we would be walking as a group with a guide, we would have to go at their pace.

There were a few who looked younger and fitter, and they probably felt as worried as we did. But the sun was shining, and we were going to be walking through a beautiful part of the country, so who was complaining?

First we went to the company headquarters in Motueka, where we shuffled bags, lunches, forms and brochures around, before travelling on to Kaiteriteri, where we were transferred to a boat.

We had a very pleasant trip along the coast, past glorious beaches and rocky outcrops, with abundant wildlife. We were dropped at Totaranui, where we regrouped and set off for Awaroa. We had three guides (one German, two English), who all seemed very knowledgeable and experienced. They answered a variety of questions, and all seemed full of enthusiasm and love for the area despite having done the job for some time, which augured well for the walk.

We did find that we had to hang back and wait sometimes, but the group split up a bit, with two guides taking the slowest people.

The walk was largely alongside the beach but with some ups and downs which hadn’t been emphasised in the brochures. We couldn’t dawdle very much because we had to get across the Awaroa Inlet before the tide came in too far. As it was, the water was nearly knee-deep when we went through, and I still don’t know how the slowest couple (88 and 90!) managed.

However, we all arrived, fairly dry, at Meadowbank Lodge, our accommodation for the first night. It was nice to sit as the sun went down and see the tide coming in, the boats moored near the beach, and the overall peace of the whole scene. This was just before Awaroa Beach was bought by and for the nation, and I hope we’ve got our money’s worth. I mean, think what we could have bought with that money — a dilapidated do-up starter home in an unpopular area of South Auckland, or a small fraction of a flag referendum, for instance.

Unreasonably golden sandBut instead we’ve ended up with only kilometres of unreasonably golden sand, from your feet to the horizon, full of unrealistically transparent water, unnecessarily blue water reflecting the sky and washed with non-stop sunshine, bush and rocks down to the water and calm, idyllic conditions for swimming and kayaking — you have to wonder whether it was really worth it?

We had dinner together in the dining room, at several large tables so we all met a variety of other people. The meals were very good, though with a limited choice, and there was certainly plenty for everyone.

Afterwards, we had a short meeting with instructions about the next day, and we were relieved to find that only a small group were walking the next day — the rest had chosen other options. We were booked in for a half-day’s kayaking, which I was rather apprehensive about, but there was always the opportunity to change your mind and walk all day instead.

After breakfast — again, a good meal, with hot cooked food if you wanted it — we made our lunches and met the rest of the group for the walk to the next bay, where we would find the kayaks.

We had to go over a headland, but it wasn’t a very difficult or strenuous walk, and after lunch on the beach, four of us were given a brief lesson in kayak technique before climbing in and pushing off. They were doubles, so I shared with my husband, and found the whole thing surprisingly easy, though not terribly comfortable.

The kayak guide was excellent — helpful, experienced, interested in all the features and creatures that we were passing, enthusiastic about everything and encouraging when we might have been a bit daunted at some of the narrow openings we were heading for.

We arrived triumphantly at Torrent Bay Lodge at about the same time as the walkers, who had also enjoyed their day. We had a delicious meal and good conversation. Some of the guests were spending more time there than we were, so we met different people from the night before.

We went to bed wondering whether our arms or our legs would be stiffer the next day, and whether we would be walking or kayaking as a consequence.

Our kayak guide had begged us to get up to watch the sunrise over the beach the next morning, so we duly got up and stood there at about six o’clock, only to find that it was a bit cloudy and not quite the spectacle it should have been. However, the rest of the day was brilliantly sunny again, and we weren’t suffering any after-effects from the day before, so we took to the water with enthusiasm.

Once again, we were treated to seals, seabirds, rays, rocks, little islands, beautiful views and calm water. However, by the time we reached the beach where we met the walkers for lunch, my husband and I were both feeling a bit sore. The kayaks are not built for comfort, and with bulky lifejackets it’s difficult to stuff anything soft between you and the back so and it was rubbing quite badly.

Apart from that, though, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and, despite being a novice, had no difficulty — though I did of course have a companion to help me.

After lunch we joined the walking party for the final leg. The other kayakers opted to continue on the water, and they did a few detours, which included seeing some penguins. We enjoyed the walk too, and it was interesting to see views from both water and land.

We said goodbye to our guides who were having a day or two off before starting the whole thing all over again, and got in the bus to go back to Nelson.

It was a very attractive and not particularly challenging walk, though there were certainly more ups and downs than indicated in the brochure. It was also possible to adapt the experience to suit yourself — our 88-90-year-old couple only walked shortish distances, travelling the rest of the way by boat; and if you changed your mind about kayaking, you could walk all the way instead.

The guides, though not strictly necessary (except for the kayak leader), were full of enthusiasm and information, and made the walking sections very enjoyable. Altogether it was a very pleasant way to see one of New Zealand’s most beautiful regions, and should be manageable for anyone of reasonable fitness.