Day tripping in Italy

Giotto’s Last Judgment in Padua is enough to strike horror into the heart of anyone thinking of straying from a virtuous path.

ONE afternoon I took the train to Vicenza. I didn’t know much about it, except that there were a number of examples of buildings designed by Palladio — and since his influence in architecture was so great, I thought I should have a look.

Arriving from the hustle and bustle and chaotic atmosphere of Verona, I found Vicenza very calm. Admittedly, it was lunchtime, when all good Italians are at home eating, but even at lunchtime in Verona the place is full of activity.

Here the streets were broad and empty, and the tourists seemed slower and quieter. None of the higgledy-piggledy charm of buildings of different eras, or the randomness of family life spilling on to balconies and into the streets.

No, Vicenza looked as though it had grown in a more considered fashion, with wide streets and dignified buildings everywhere. Even the ones not designed by Palladio seemed to be trying to live up to his creations, and the whole impression was of a place that had been planned to display order and authority. It is impressive, but slightly less welcoming than cities which have grown more organically.

I came into the town at one end and found that the tourist office, with maps and information, was right at the other end of the very long main street. It wasn’t at all obvious, and someone who saw my map later couldn’t believe my luck in getting hold of one.

I gave him directions, but when he saw the length of the street he decided to give it a miss. I walked around the main streets, following my map and dutifully looking at all the important buildings — which were impressive but not always breathtaking.

My imagination was not really fired until I came to the Olympic Theatre. This was Palladio’s last work, but I didn’t know what to expect as I bought my ticket and was ushered along the corridor to the entrance.

It was stunning. The auditorium is based on an ancient amphitheatre, with solid steps to climb up and sit on, and with classical-style statues all along the top. The stage is surrounded with carving and more statues, and the shallow performing area also has carved arches. But the really breathtaking part (not designed by Palladio, who had died by the time the building was completed) was the scenery.

It was created in 1585, and is the oldest stage set still in existence today. It is beautifully designed to give the impression that its long streets stretch a long way back into the depths of the theatre — you would swear you were in the middle of a real city. When you go close, though, you discover that it’s a trompe-l’oeil illusion, and that the perspective is created on a flat surface.

I found that an afternoon was probably as long as I needed to spend in Vicenza, with no transport, I couldn’t go to the villas outside the main centre, and I seemed to be able to cover the areas of interest (which did include a large square with varied architectural styles, very attractive mediaeval buildings and a tower, as well as Palladio’s impressive constructions) in a few hours.

I was glad I had allocated only an afternoon to Vicenza, and left Padova (Padua) for a day trip. It was a Saturday when I went there and it was nearly as full of people as Verona, but a lot of them were there for the markets.

There were two main ones, a fruit and vegetable market which included Zespri kiwifruit (“stupendous”, according to the sign) and a wonderful array of eggplants, peppers, zucchini, tomatoes and plums of all different shapes, sizes and colours; and a mixed one, with cheese, bread, cured meats, spices, flavourings, risotto mixes and specialities from various parts of Italy.

There was an enormous covered market, the upper floor of which has been converted into an art gallery, and also, of course, churches and more art galleries and museums and remarkable buildings, but the main thing people go to Padua for is Giotto’s frescoes.

You have to reserve a place in advance. I went there straight from the train in the morning, and they managed to squeeze me in at 3.30pm. Even when your tour starts, you have to wait outside for some minutes so that the last group can come out, so there are never too many people in there together.

That turned out to be very useful as there was a small tour group sitting next to me and their guide was preparing them for the frescoes by describing and explaining them, and pointing out small features to look out for. I have found on several occasions that on my own it’s easy to lurk at the edge of a tour group, thus getting many unexpected insights into what I’m looking at, at someone else’s expense.

Before seeing the paintings themselves, you have a 15-minute introductory film, all in an air-conditioned atmosphere to protect the artworks.

Entering the chapel is certainly an impressive experience, with all the walls and ceiling covered with paintings showing scenes from the life of Mary, and then the life of Jesus, and finally a huge depiction of the Last Judgment, enough to strike horror into the heart of anyone thinking of straying from a virtuous path.

Thanks to the guide, I noticed and understood a lot of things, including touches of humour and humanity, that would have passed me by otherwise. I had never found Giotto’s paintings very attractive before, but after seeing the frescoes I shall certainly approach his work with more enthusiasm and understanding.

After that, I took advantage of the combined ticket to see the nearby museum of applied and decorative arts, which was also very interesting. I saw a great deal of pottery from the region, as well as lace from Venice and Milan, and some silk clothes, exquisitely embroidered and decorated, from the 18th century, ornaments, sculpture and furniture. There were several pictures, including a portrait of Emperor Maximilian of Habsburg, who had the most ridiculously elegant beard I’ve ever seen.

Then I took the train back to Verona, where I noticed that on Platform 1 there was a church, complete with a stained-glass picture of St Christopher in the door. Unfortunately it was closed. I was equally surprised, though in a rather less relaxed way, when I got to Grenoble later on and found the platforms featured soldiers patrolling with large guns. I much preferred the Italian idea.

Unfortunately I didn’t have time to visit many places outside Verona, but those I did see provided plenty of contrasts. Vicenza was calm and confident, Padua was lively and varied, and then there was Piacenza, which deserves a page to itself.