It's absolutely where the magic happens. The back road, Ara Metua, and its adjoining lanes is like entering another world, where the beating heart of Rarotongan authenticity slaps you in the face at every turn with its living history and village vitality.
Much of the back road is 1000 years old, constructed from coral stone and basalt rock, by the great chief Toi. Prior to European contact, Rarotongans predominantly lived in the foothills of the island, in the shadow of the towering volcanic peaks that serrate the skyline with a Jurassic Park-style aura. Villagers would only venture down to the coastline to fish and collect seafood. The interior provided much greater protection from tropical cyclones and potential enemy attacks. Ireland's fabled “40 shades of green” would meet their match on Rarotonga's backroads, crowned by mighty peaks like Te Manga.
The rich volcanic soils and tropical climate conspire to produce rampantly fertile growing conditions for a kaleidoscope of lush and verdant vegetation. Rarotonga has become a byword for mango, guava, star-fruit and candlenuts, in my book.
If you're doing a self-drive, keep an eye out for roaming animals. On one occasion, a massive pig barrelled out in front of me, staring in panic before frantically hoofing it across the road. I slammed on the brakes of my rental, gripped by the fear of the insurance excess, managing to save his bacon and my bank account.
Just past Muri village, call into the sacred site of Avana Harbour. It was here in 700BC that Polynesian voyaging canoes made their first Rarotonga landing, arriving from Tahiti and Samoa. Avana Passage was also the departure point for the great migration to Aotearoa, in approximately 1350AD. The names of the seven lead canoes are proudly emblazoned on the hoardings at Avana, although some locals told me their oral history suggests 200 canoes actually took part in the Great Migration. Today, Avana Harbour and Avatiu Harbour is regularly home to Marumaru Atua, a traditional double-hulled voyaging canoe. It's an evocative sight, binding the ocean-faring past with the present.
Let's be honest, island night shows can be a bit of a tourist trap. But if you want to enjoy a mix of local music, dancing and food, with a heightened sense of authenticity and heritage, Highland Paradise is an excellent choice. Perched on the slopes of the sacred peak of Maungaroa, stands the site of the ancient mountain refuge of the Tinomana people. Abandoned in the 19th century, following the tribe's conversion to Christianity, the village was reclaimed from the jungle just 35 years ago, by Raymond Pirangi, a descendant of the last pre-Christian high chief (ariki) of the Tinomana.
Among the 25 developed acres of magnificent gardens and views, you will experience drumming, singing, dancing, weaving, carving, medicine making, story-telling and umu feasting just as they were experienced more than 600 years ago on this very spot! The lush botanical garden commands views across the west coast of Rarotonga.
The highlight for me though was seeing the remains of the ancient marae, which has been carbon-dated to 500AD. Danny Mataroa has a personal connection through tribal links to the village and guides people through the cultural history of Highland Paradise. Danny pointed out, as we stood in the lush grounds, the neighbouring flat-top mountain of Raemaru.
Legend has it that a major tribal conquest led to the top of the mountain being sliced off and spirited away to Aitutaki, because the locals didn't have a decent sized hill on their island. After a moving tapu-lifting ceremony in which offerings are made to the ancestors of the marae, guests are welcomed into the cultural centre for an ebullient showcase of traditional entertainment, as you tuck into a hearty buffet dinner, replete with traditional foods including taro, arrowroot, wahoo fish and rukau.
Rukau are the young leaves of a taro plant, very high in iron, and after being boiled for several hours, are mixed with coconut cream to produce a delightful dish — and a staple for Rarotongans. Lock in a magical holiday in a little South Pacific paradise.
