The vegetation-draped premises are attractive and, if you are squeezed, it's not unpleasant to sit outside on a warm evening watching the passing locals toil up the hill with their New World carrier bags.
I started with the spiced scallops - not very big ones and not too many of them, but any disappointment vanished with the excellence of the accompanying assembly of coriander, cucumber, mizuna greens, pickled ginger, Thai basil and a sambal coconut dressing which was clean, spicy and subtle.
Similar praise greeted our other starter, the vegetarian option of buffalo mozzarella with tomato, red onion, radicchio, basil and the currently ubiquitous pomegranate in a romesco sauce.
From the list of four mains I went for the fish of the day, grilled kingfish on a flavoursome butterbean and garlic puree with grilled asparagus, given some added crunch with hazelnuts and dressed with a tarragon vinaigrette. Not complicated but again with an appealing freshness.
The crispy confit duck leg was good and the accompaniments were well-chosen, with a blend of sweetness and spice - smoked eggplant, kale, preserved lemon, pomegranate, roast grapes and given a lift with harissa.
There was a choice of three desserts and what sounded like a good selection of cheeses, explained by a staff member who knew exactly what they were.
The chocolate delice was spectacularly rich, backed with a smear of tamarind caramel, ruby grapefruit and a caramel wafer and a little jug of cream. The limoncello panna cotta was of exactly the right consistency, with sharp fresh raspberries, a spicy ginger snap, pomegranate (again) and a shot of limoncello.
The overall atmosphere is that of the good local eatery, with regulars being greeted warmly but the outsiders, like ourselves, not left feeling like pariahs.
We enjoyed ourselves with only the passing thought that inside the building the quality of your evening could be largely in the hands of your neighbours, who are very adjacent.
Our meal: $157.50 for two starters, two mains and two desserts and
three glasses of wine.
Our wine: New Zealand wines dominate the limited but well-chosen list with enough options by the glass. Our Heron's Flight Dolcetto rosé suited a pleasant summer evening and the Shaky Bridge 2011 Central Otago pinot noir was particularly well priced at $9.50 a glass. They also offer Hallertau beers.
Verdict: An intimate and welcoming little diner with well-flavoured and carefully balanced food that lives up to its advertising.