There was a time when the only pasta we saw on Kiwi plates was macaroni cheese or tinned spaghetti on toast.
Nowadays, this versatile ingredient forms an important part of most diets, but we have developed our own ways of using it.
Here, it is usually a main course but, in Italy, it is almost invariably served before a second course of meat, poultry or seafood. At a formal or restaurant meal, it will often follow the plate of nibbles known as antipasto, which translates as "before the meal".
The other difference is that in Italy pasta is the star. If sauce is involved it will play a secondary role and, often, there will be no sauce.
That is the philosophy behind today's recipe. The pasta is simply tossed with enough ingredients to add accents of flavour.
This is the sort of dish that can be thrown together in around 15 minutes after a tiring day at work, or perhaps served to friends who drop in unannounced.
4 handfuls dried linguine (about 240g)
1 Tbsp pure olive oil
2 Tbsps pine nuts
2 Tbsps salt-packed capers, rinsed and patted dry
2cm chunk Parmesan cheese, shaved
6-8 basil leaves
3 Tbsps extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper, ideally freshly ground
Bring a large pot of water to the boil and salt generously. Add linguine, stir and cook for 10-12 minutes. Meanwhile, heat a small frypan and add pinenuts. Cook, stirring often, until they just begin to change colour. Remove, add the pure olive oil and capers and cook until they dry and begin to darken slightly. Return pinenuts to pan and turn off the heat.
Drain pasta, add it to the pan, season and toss on a gentle heat to combine ingredients.
Transfer to warmed bowls and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. Tear basil into chunks and scatter on to with the shaved Parmesan. Serve immediately, perhaps with extra Parmesan and extra-virgin olive oil for diners to add as they like.
Entree or light lunch for four
Wine match
Because this straightforward dish relies on the salty accents of capers and the herby edge of fresh basil for its character, we need a wine with lively, simple flavours. It is a style we do well in this country, particularly with Marlborough sauvignon blanc.
The first new-vintage examples of this internationally famous variety are now appearing on the shelves, and one of the first out of the starting blocks is Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010. It has all the vibrant lemon rind and passionfruit aromas we could wish for, leading to a flavour that is edgy and invigorating, but still offers reasonable fruit depth.
The standard price is just under $20, but you'll probably find it for less than that.