What were the most memorable dishes and snacks we tried this September in Auckland (and beyond)?
This month, our plates featured end-of-season offerings, dishes with a hint of summer and a lot of eating in the inner city.
Burrata, butternut, chilli and hazelnut, $32, from Amano
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It’s the perfect dish to have when nipping in for a social drink with a friend and pairs beautifully with Pahi oysters topped with shallots and vinegar. – Jenni Mortimer
66-68, Tyler St, Britomart Place

Otto’s set menu, $56
I’m at that point in my life where significant birthday celebrations contain numbers previously reserved for older relatives and not my immediate friend group. A recent big six-oh was celebrated via the $56 set menu at Otto on Karangahape Rd. It was noisy, fun and the best-value feast I’ve eaten in any decade. Honey balsamic lamb ribs were a standout on the night; boxed-up leftovers (especially the beef cheek ragu) were better than a Panadol in the morning. – Kim Knight
375 Karangahape Rd, Auckland Central
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Tacos on a Tuesday, $7 each, from Tacoteca
I was after a more treat-ish lunch after a hectic work week (see NZFW: Kahuria), and the alliterative offerings at Tacoteca: $7 for their fresh tacos on Tuesday. To keep it speedy, I ordered just three – the grilled fish, smoky cabbage and grilled mushroom. The latter was the best of the three, with deep umami and smokiness, the heft of added noples/cactus and a crumble of halloumi. Glancing at the menu, I realised I’d missed a memo on their brunch offering: think huevos rancheros, enchiladas and chilaquiles served with coffee or hot chocolate. I’ll be pencilling in a visit for this expanded menu. – Madeleine Crutchley
City Works Depot, 1/90 Wellesley St West, Auckland Central
Winter toast, $25, from Two Little Chickens
Brunch can break the bank and, too often, it’s a disappointment. At Two Little Chickens in Mt Albert, I ordered the “winter toast” and my only regret is that any day soon they’ll be switching to a “spring”-based topping. Go immediately for sweet succulent beetroot offset by bitter radicchio and a smoosh of piquant goat cheese ($25 plus an extra $3 for a poached egg on the side). – Kim Knight
4A Owairaka Ave, Mt Albert
Halva ice cream sundae with roasted sesame caramel, olive oil and sea salt, $22, at Forest
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Advertise with NZME.My insatiable sweet tooth means I’m never one to pass on dessert, and the best sweet treat I’ve tried this month was the halva ice cream sundae at award-winning vegetarian restaurant, Forest. While simple in execution, the flavours and textures were impeccable – a masterclass in combining elements at the opposite end of the scale that somehow feel complementary. A generous scoop of smooth, sweet ice cream is elevated by a drizzle of sticky sesame caramel, with a glug of olive oil and flaky sea salt layered on top. It’s an understatement to say every mouthful was a delight and I’m already planning my next visit. – Ashleigh Cometti
243 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden

Tala’s Fāgogo tasting menu, $165
It was my first time at Tala but it won’t be my last. I was enchanted by the whole experience, from the intimate and flatteringly-lit dining room to the self-possessed presence of co-owner Henry Onesemo, and the seriously delicious food that was like nothing I’ve tasted before.
Tala is a modern Samoan restaurant in Parnell, and I was there as a guest of Mastercard to celebrate the relaunch of their Priceless.com website, which offers unique, money-can’t-buy experiences ... except you can buy them (as long as you have a Mastercard).
We experienced Onesemo’s tasting menu, named Fāgogo, which refers to the Samoan art of dramatic storytelling. The 11 courses, plus welcome cocktail, surprised the senses in the best possible way.
Pineapple dusted with sumac and chilli was inspired by Onesemo’s childhood memories of waiting impatiently for fruit to ripen. He and other local children would pick the fruit early, then eat it with sugar or salt... and sometimes a sprinkle of Raro powder.
A quail egg was soft-boiled, peeled and rolled in ash made from burnt hay, which we then dipped in a quail egg and carrot sauce with carrot oil. Onesemo says when he was growing up, eggs were reserved for the most special occasions.
A tartare of 55-day, dry-aged Hawke’s Bay sirloin beef was a tribute to pisupo – corned beef, introduced to Samoa by German and American soldiers before World War I.
There were also interpretations of fa’apāā (coconut and pineapple bread), kopai (dumplings – in this instance, potato, with a dreamy truffle cream, parmesan mousse and chicken skin crumb), oka (raw seafood with lime, salt-cured tuna, coconut, cucumber and tomato), and more.
My ultimate favourite is pictured above – the “Roadside BBQ”, a sticky pork rib, rubbed with coriander, Sichuan pepper and molasses, grilled over coals and brushed with chilli, lemongrass, mānuka honey and cumin salt. I immediately wanted more. My stomach implored me to save room for the three desserts to come.
“We have a go-hard-or-go-home business here,” said one of Onesemo’s team. “We like to send you home nice and full.”
Mission accomplished. I left with a happily full tummy and a sense that with Tala, Onesemo and head chef Tommy Hope are creating something truly special. – Stephanie Holmes
235 Parnell Rd, Parnell
The white rabbit, approx $16, from Best Ugly Bagels
The weather was wild and the delayed flight to Christchurch was probably inevitable. At Auckland Airport’s domestic terminal, the silver lining of a travel disruption is always a “white rabbit” from Best Ugly Bagels. I know they do other toppings, but I ordered the cream cheese, tomato, basil and lemon-infused olive oil bagel on day one and have never looked back. (Grab extra napkins. That lemony drizzle runs everywhere). – Kim Knight
Auckland Airport

Crudités and taramasalata, $26, from Juno
I used to work directly across the road from Juno. Did I ever visit? No, absolutely not. But now that I work slightly further than a pedestrian crossing away, where did I find myself two weekends in a row? You got it, Juno. And why? Because I was desperate to eat … a plate of raw vegetables. Tarted up as “crudités” and served with a delicate dollop of taramasalata (a dip made of salted and cured fish roe – and much nicer than it sounds) this plate of food has a grip on me. The baby carrots, radishes, thick slices of cucumber and individual endive leaves are heavily coated in an oily, acidic dressing, making the balance with the creamy dip utter luxury. Team it with a tiny, briny martini (they make near-thimble-sized versions during their happy hour), and there’s no distance I wouldn’t travel. – Bridget Jones
20 Williamson Ave, Grey Lynn
Tahitian-inspired menu at Metita
SkyCity Auckland’s Metita-meets-Tahiti collaboration (between chef Michael Meredith and Tahiti Tourism) finishes at the end of September. I was lucky enough to score a seat at a media preview table, where the absolute highlight of the six-course offering was a compressed watermelon and tuna poke. There was a pool of extraordinarily delicious coconutty-vinegary-soy, a bubbly sprig of limu (seaweed or, more specifically in this case, sea grapes) and in my greedy opinion, this needs to go on the permanent menu, stat. – Kim Knight
The Grand by SkyCity, Level 3/90 Federal St, Auckland Central
Beyond Auckland
Sunny and comforting plates were found on our travels this month.

Tuna crudo, $23, and pita with dips, $8, from Local Talent Taverna, Whangārei
The sun seems to shine in the dining room of Local Talent Taverna, even though the restaurant is nestled down a quiet side street in the business precinct of Whangārei. The coastal aspirations are encouraged by both the interior (wood panelling! sandy tiles! bonus pool table!) and the Greek-influenced menu. For the latter, I enjoyed a couple of sharing plates. The tuna crudo featured thin slices of fish layered with creme fraiche, pickled courgette, toasted pine nuts and fried rosemary (usually, the plate also has red onion, but our server told us they refresh dishes frequently). We cleaned up the remainder of this lush serving with a side of pita, which also came with more-ish chickpea hummus and almond romesco. – Madeleine Crutchley
99 Cameron St, Whangārei
Oyako don from Zen Sushi and Dumplings, $20.50, Christchurch
Zen Sushi and Dumplings isn’t situated in the prettiest part of the Christchurch Arts Centre, but when the daytime temperature was hovering around 8C, it served up an oyako don – chicken and egg simmered over rice – that nourished me to the depths of my frozen soul. – Kim Knight
301 Montreal St, Christchurch Central City

Biscuits, approx $5 each, from the Penthouse Cinema, Wellington
Te Whanganui-a-Tara served up many memorable meals within the bounds of a short weekend trip. There was the syrupy brioche french toast with matcha chantilly at Floriditas, warming empanadas and mate from Brooklyn’s Chimichurri and a build-your-own plate from the excellence Damascus team at the Vogelmorn Bowling Club’s 10th anniversary celebration (all delicious and highly recommended).
However, the sweetest treat surprised during a spontaneous, wind-dodging stop at the historic Penthouse Cinema. We paired milky L’affare coffees with dunkable biscuits – a vanilla-spiked melting moment and a jam-filled Belgian cookie sandwich – and took in the aged newspaper clippings stuck to the cafe walls. Worth a visit, even if you don’t have the hours to catch a flick. – Madeleine Crutchley
205 Ohiro Rd, Brooklyn
Little treats
These are the snacks that stuck with us.

Potato and taleggio focaccia, $16, from Mother
Mother, a new establishment perched on a corner in Grey Lynn, is a slick operation that rolls the conventions of a cafe, a deli and a wine bar into one. The spot features a long counter stocked with hearty focaccia sandwiches and sweet desserts, and a huge capacity for patrons across shared bench, booth seats and outdoor dining. The new venture, helmed by Hugo Baird (Lilian, Honey Bones and Hotel Ponsonby), Willy Gresson (Lilian) and Petra Galler (Butter, Butter), is primed for people-watching, with big, buzzy crowds and a window that provides a glance into the kitchen.
The rush extends outside lunch hours: my visit at 11am was buzzy. The coffee machine was working hard to accommodate and my oat flat white was served speedily. I tucked into a potato- and taleggio-topped focaccia, perched at that big stainless steel counter. It was flavourful and satisfyingly crispy but I found myself eyeing up the Italian-ish sandwiches: chicken salad, mortadella and salami options were beckoning. I would love to see their take on a vege-friendly combination, though their salads cater well to this preference. Next time I pop to Mother, I’ll be leaning towards their sweeter treats: an almond sweet bun is the star offering, but the pecan toffee bun and cookies were also calling my name. – Madeleine Crutchley
403 Richmond Rd, Grey Lynn
Whitestone Cheese’s Vintage Five Forks, $9.20
I discovered Whitestone Cheese’s Vintage Five Forks during an Auckland Covid lockdown. In a stay-at-home world, the aged 50/50 goat’s and cow’s milk cheese was a ray of South Island-scented sunshine. I couldn’t get enough of its subtle, nutty, pineapple notes. And then, one day, there was simply no more. This week, the GOAT returned. Two years of careful maturation go into the Ōamaru-made cheese that sells for $9.20 (plus courier) per 100g portion. I’ve already eaten three wedges. – Kim Knight

Pain au raisin, $7.50, at Mor
When a serendipitous stretch of the legs found me passing the door of Mor on a sunny Saturday morning, my plod was promptly put on pause. Some people judge the quality of a bakery on its hot cross buns, others, almond croissants. Pain au raisin provides my personal metric of success. This was a supreme spiral – velvety custard, studded with jewels of plump golden raisins, dolloped and curled between a corkscrew of shatteringly delicate pastry. A superfine veil of faintly floral icing encased the whole whirl. Name a better meal to eat on the run. – Tyson Beckett
158 Remuera Rd, Remuera
Gifted
Pistachio spread, $16, from Fix & Fogg
Don’t be put off by the unusual green hue; this scrumptious spread is the perfect middle ground for those who think Biscoff is too sweet and peanut butter is too salty. Its smooth yet layered texture sits nicely on the palate and will go down a treat paired with crackers and toast alike. – Mitchell Hageman
Whittaker’s limited-edition flavours: Strawberry and Shortbread and Peppermint and Cocoa Biscuit
I call myself a chocolate fiend, but I’m also fussy. I love my classics when it comes to Whittaker’s, so when the opportunity came to try out two of their limited-edition flavours, I was nervous. The Strawberry and Shortbread was unexpectedly deeply aromatic of actual strawberries. It was great. It was delightful, even. They weren’t stingy with the crunches from the shortbread. The Peppermint and Cocoa Biscuit was also deeply aromatic. Not in a nice way, though. It tasted like a retirement home. – Varsha Anjali
What was the best meal you ate in September? Email Viva@nzherald.co.nz and let us know.
More to savour
New chefs, trends – and a Wellington restaurant review
How Did Our Taste Buds Get So Spoiled? New York Times: Flavoured seltzers and spicy-sweet mashups dominate today’s dining table.
Why I Didn’t Have A Great Time At Wellington’s Charley Noble. Jesse Mulligan restaurant review.
What Is Tommy Hope Bringing To The Samoan Table? Meet the new head chef at Tala.
The Allure (& Hubris) Of Candles In Restaurants. New York Times: Falling back in love with waxy drips and burned shirt sleeves.