Nici Wickes: Bad Fad

By Nici Wickes

Cronuts, a creation of New York chef Dominique Ansel, have become the latest food fad.
Cronuts, a creation of New York chef Dominique Ansel, have become the latest food fad.

Cronuts. Seriously? When this croissant-crossed-with-a-doughnut fad first made an appearance I thought it was a no-brainer - people would never be fooled into thinking that something that tasted this good could ever be a good thing for them, and even if they did, they'd soon come to their senses.

Apparently I was wrong. Way wrong. These fried, carb-loaded, calorific pastries, which can boast more kilojoules than a Big Mac, continue to fly out the door of some of our most reputable cafes and bakeries - in the hands of the same people slurping on green juices, I might add.

I've heard that folk are prepared to line up to make sure they don't miss out on their sticky mega-snack of a busy weekend morning. It's insane and I'm wondering when the bubble (of fat, that is) will burst?

Because that's the thing with fads that have no cred - they come, they go, the fast-food chains jump in and it all turns to custard, and not just the filling.

My love for macarons was ruined when they started turning up in unnaturally bright colours and McDonald's added them to their menu, and I haven't been able to face a cupcake since they became almost entirely made of "frosting" and you could buy them frozen, ready to just defrost and eat. Oh dear.

Bring back decent lamingtons with their gritty coconut, the Cornish pasty full of meaty gravy (like the stunning one I enjoyed in Arrowtown last week) and Chelsea buns with their thin pink icing.

They were all, quite simply, a delicious and modest treat to be enjoyed in your own good time. They weren't over-sized and nor were they a barometer for how cool you were. And you didn't have to queue for them either.


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