Although most of Hong Kong's seven million inhabitants live in skyscrapers in the centre of Hong Kong Island, the "Special Administrative Region" is spread over an area of 1130 square kilometres. Much of this is the New Territories to the north, a peninsula attached to the south of China surrounded by 265 islands, many wild and unpopulated.
At the heart of this former British colony is Hong Kong Island, whose northern rim is lined with skyscrapers in the district called Central.
Just across Victoria Harbour is Kowloon, the southernmost part of the New Territories.
The main branch of the Hong Kong Tourism Board is located at Kowloon Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open 8am-8pm daily.
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For superb views, the InterContinental, at 18 Salisbury Road, stands in the Tsim Sha Tsui district of Kowloon, with most of its 495 rooms facing the harbour. Doubles start at HK$2882, room only.
The Peninsula Hotel, also on Salisbury Road, is known for its fleet of monogrammed Rolls Royces, which are liveried in a special "Peninsula green". Doubles from HK$5000, room only.
Similarly lofty are the views and rates at the Ritz-Carlton at 1 Austin Road West, which starts on the 102nd floor of the International Commerce Centre tower and is the world's highest hotel. Doubles from HK$6000, room only.
On Hong Kong island, the JJ Hotel at 165-171 Wan Chai Rd has doubles from HK$1200, room only.
DAY ONE
Take a view...
... from the deck of the Star Ferry, one of Hong Kong's simplest (and cheapest) thrills. Buy a HK$2 token from the machine at either terminal (exact change required) to be shuttled across Victoria Harbour on a route that has operated since 1888, linking Central to Tsim Sha Tsui. Though there are now underground train and road connections, the ferry is still the most exciting option, especially at night. (It runs until midnight.)
Take a hike
Start at the Taoist Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, built in 1848, where you have your fortune read through the ancient tradition of chim. You shake a box of numbered sticks, and when one falls to the ground, you look up the number it bears in a book of forecasts. Mine wasn't good.
Cheer yourself up by wandering along the leafy Hollywood Road, which boasts antique shops and galleries of both ancient and contemporary art: go upstairs at Wattis Fine Art to see black-and-white photos of the city 100 years ago in its colonial prime. Pass Shelley Street, where the world's longest escalator, opened in 1993, runs up the middle of the street.
Lunch on the run
Try one of the chaotic open-air food stalls, known as dai pai dongs, at the Graham Street end of Stanley Street in Central. Share your Formica table with strangers as you slurp your way through a giant bowl of noodles for HK$30-40.
Window shopping
Hong Kong's first Apple store at the International Finance Center, 8 Finance St, opened in September. It is a two-storey cathedral to designer technology.
An aperitif
The idea of a fashion-branded bar may appal, but Hong Kong is unashamedly commercial. Dress up, or you won't be let in to the sleek black Armani bar in the Chater House Mall at 11 Chater Road, which has a constantly changing light display, and head out on to the terrace. Drink a luminous Fire Opal - orange and mango and a fair amount of alcohol (HK$100).
Dining with the locals
You can find almost every cuisine in Hong Kong, but for quality northern Chinese food, head to Hutong at 28/F, One Peking Road, which, like all the best things in Hong Kong, comes with an astounding view, thanks to its position on the 28th floor. Book a window seat, and arrive before 8pm, when the city's nightly light display begins: 40 buildings now contribute to this 10-minute spectacular, which has grown to become the world's largest permanent light-and-sound show.
Particularly good are the "Ma La" chilli prawns, fried with lots of whole Sichuan chillies. It comes with so many you think they must be of the not-too-hot variety. Trust me, they're not.
DAY TWO
Take a ride
Double-deckered and ludicrously narrow, with open windows and a smart green livery, Hong Kong's trams are anachronisms. They look all the more antiquated as they ding-ding their way through Hong Kong's slickest and tallest towers. The six routes also provide the cheapest city transportation: the flat fare is HK$2.30. You need the exact coins to drop into the machine - as you dismount, not when you board. Get on where Wan Chai Road meets Johnston Road; get off at Admiralty station.
Go to church
Take the underground from Admiralty to the Chi Lin Nunnery, a sprawling reconstruction of a Tang dynasty (618-907) temple built entirely of wood (not even a metal nail was used) - you'd never know it was built in 1998. Surrounded by high rises in the Diamond Hill district, this complex of shrines and Chinese gardens is worth the half-hour train ride (fare HK$12).
A walk in the park
For an inner-city park, Kowloon Park has more than most: turtles in the pond, plumed parakeets in the aviary, a flamingo lake, sculpture park and a vast swimming pool complex. The pool is open from 6.30am - 6pm, November to May (HK$19).
Brunch
Dim sum is the ultimate fast food - bite-size portions of dumpling, spare ribs or spring roll that can be eaten at any time of day, for as little as HK$10. There are good dim sum canteens all over the city, but if you can be bothered to queue for up to three hours, Tim Ho Wan at Shop 8 Kwong Wa Street, Kowloon (open 10am-10pm), has been awarded a Michelin star, making it the world's cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant.
Cultural afternoon
Three important cultural sites are conveniently located in a row along Salisbury Road in Tsim Sha Tsui: take your pick from the domed Space Museum (10 Salisbury Road; open 10am-9pm at weekends; 1-9pm Wednesday, Thursday and Friday; closed Tuesdays, HK$10); the Museum of Art, home to some gorgeous Ming and Tang dynasty pottery (10 Salisbury Road; 10am-6pm Sunday-Friday, to 8pm Saturdays, closed Thursdays; HK$10); and the Cultural Centre, a carbuncle on the water that hosts concerts and exhibitions.
The icing on the cake
Bespoke tailoring is ludicrously cheap, though quality varies. Founded in 1957, Sam's Tailor on the ground floor at K&L, Burlington Arcade, 90-94C Nathan Rd, is a Hong Kong institution. Leave plenty of time for fittings: I got three beautiful suits for about HK$3500, but one chest measurement was out, so I now look like a pigeon.
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