Britain: Right royal track (+photos)

The Royal Scotsman lets you fully appreciate the landscape. Photo / Supplied

I'm reclining, flute of champagne in hand, in a velveteen armchair in a wood-panelled room lit by period lamps. Is this a classy hotel? An exclusive club? A posh drawing-room?

None of those. I'm on a train, albeit no ordinary train.

The Royal Scotsman is luxury-plus. The route I'm travelling runs from Edinburgh up Scotland's east coast, through the Highlands to Kyle of Lochalsh (near the Isle of Skye), then south through Aviemore and Pitlochry back to Edinburgh.

Even boarding was done in style. We were led by a piper - in bearskin hat, kilt, sporran and tartan cloak - along the platform to the maroon Royal Scotsman.

Leaving Edinburgh, as we cross the Firth of Forth bridge, I unpack for the four-night trip. My cabin has Edwardian-style lights, a brass ceiling fan, mahogany panelling, twin beds with tartan bedspreads, and a tiny ensuite.

Half our day is spent watching the Scottish landscape slip past, chatting to other passengers, being waited on hand and foot. Sometimes we brave the wind and diesel fumes on the outdoor deck.

The other half of the day we're bussed to Scottish villages, castles and lodges. Overnight we are "stabled" at a railway siding or station.

Soon we pay homage to the Scots' national drink at Strathisla whisky distillery, the oldest still operating in the Highlands. Little has changed here since 1786, including the distinctive double-pagoda chimneys.

After a wee dram of Chivas Regal I feel rash enough to tackle some Scottish dancing, accompanied by locals on drums and accordion. We link hands and trip around in a figure eight.

The landscape between Inverness and Kyle of Lochalsh has glassy stretches of lochs, distant hazy hills, curves of sand or fingers of rocks reaching into the water. At Boat of Garten we visit Rothiemurchus Estate and turn our inexpert hands to fly-fishing, clay pigeon shooting, driving and simply wandering the estate.

I give my overfed body some exercise - cancelled out later with scones, whipped cream and strawberry jam.

At Kyle of Lachalsh, langoustines are brought to the station platform by local fishermen. Sea bass, snapper and scallops, angus beef, pheasant and venison are also on the menu - on large white plates adorned with the Royal Scotsman crest.

One morning I valiantly order porridge followed by haggis (true Highlanders would scorn porridge with cream and brown sugar - or haggis in rissoles, for that matter). The porridge was delicious. The haggis... interesting.