The hedonistic 70s makes its mark on fashion for winter.
Who will be your 70s style muse this winter? A glamorous Bianca Jagger at Studio 54, or a more casual, Lolita-esque Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver? The two neatly sum up the season's obsession with the 1970s, from the sophisticate to the bohemian, both glamorous and carefree, liberated in their style. And though fashion has already seen several 70s revivals, this time around its focus is on decadent, jet-set glamour; the opulence and luxury that defined the disco era.
Designer Marc Jacobs captured the 70s glam for now, with a divine spring collection that had elements of Jagger, Foster, disco, Yves Saint Laurent and a hedonistic New York - think big hair, hot pants, halter dresses, slinky floor-length gowns, peasant blouses, flared trousers and jumpsuits, teamed with huge flowers in the hair, platforms and wide-brimmed straw hats. If ever you wanted a checklist for 70s glam, that is it.
Various incarnations of 1970s style also appeared at Gucci (slinky glamour and a bold palette inspired by late-70s photographers Guy Bourdin and David Bailey), Rodarte (burnished brown hues, 70s suburbia), Emilio Pucci (handcrafty detail), and Stefano Pilati the current designer at the original house of 70s chic, Yves Saint Laurent.
In New Zealand we are traditionally a little shy of full-blown glamour - especially one that has the potential to look a bit "costume" if it's not done with the right fabric and the right attitude. But there is still a 70s influence running throughout the collections; albeit more subtle and focused on 70s daywear.
Last season's "70s Mom" continues to be a popular reference - tops tucked into high-waisted jeans or denim skirts, silky oversized shirts and velvet and suede. At Cooper by Trelise it's by way of tan velvet skirts, at Juliette Hogan it's pussy-bow blouses and a sexy-one shouldered dress, and at Deborah Sweeney it's a fringed cape; while obviously fake fur jackets appear in almost every collection.
Label Madame Hawke touches on the 70s with a bell-sleeved "Butterfly" jacket, and a couple of draped, languid dresses, and Karen Walker offers oversized wool coats, mustard and rust 70s colours, and a bell-sleeved, pussy-bow blouse.
Hailwood nails the 70s too, with a collection that includes luxe looking dresses with drapey detail and touches of velvet, various buttoned up shirts in off-colours, and a pair of just-flared enough jeans. And for some genuine 70s glam, selected pieces of Halston Heritage will soon be available at Auckland boutique Muse - so you can channel your inner Halstonette.
If you can't resist the pull of the disco dancefloor, there are options for glamour too: Stolen Girlfriends Club's one-shouldered "drape cape' dress, Sera Lilly's maxi-trench coat, and Kate Sylvester's dramatic floor-length "Germaine" silk dress, which looks like it was made for chic, debauched nights at Studio 54.
How to do the 70s
The glamour girl's guide to 1970s style.
1 Hotpants can be pulled off by only a few. Get a pair of high-waisted denim flares instead.
2 Wear your hair long and bouncy.
3 Team a wide-brimmed hat with everything.
4 Buy a pair of huge, oversized sunglasses; preferably with a touch of gold.
5 Fur is fabulous, but it's 2011 not 1972 - make it fake.By Zoe Walker Email Zoe