The dishes covered a variety of cuisines and though this has the potential to annoy some who want a consistent or concentrated flavour palate across the menu, it didn't bother us as each dish made sense in its own right. I just hoped the chef had done a bit of travelling.
Seemed like he had. Duck pancakes came as a trio, shredded and served on tender pancakes with fresh crunchy spring onions and a sweet and spicy sauce. Fresh flavours, textural, laced with five spice - I was sold. Another trio, the sugar cane prawn pops, sounded gimmicky but were much more serious than that and left the flavours of Southeast Asia reverberating merrily around my mouth - grilled prawn meat combined with kaffir lime, fish sauce and lemongrass. A quick dip in the clear sweet sauce littered with slices of red chillies left its fiery heat, and relief came by sucking on the sugar cane - tremendous.
By now we were fully in the spirit of sharing our plates so when our three remaining dishes arrived we feasted on; a leg of roasted duck fell away into a vanilla parsnip puree, with soft bulbs of shallots braised in shiraz sharpening the flavour and providing a foil for any excess duck fat. Short trimmed lamb ribs slid off the bone and were made special with their flavouring of paprika, oregano and sherry. Shredded chicken was strewn generously through a salad of green papaya, crunchy golden fried shallots and a dressing zingy with ginger, citrus and palm sugar.
I was impressed with a kitchen that could do justice to such a wide range of culinary influences, honouring the origin of each dish superbly.
The floor staff ranged from the guy having his last night working there who had all but checked out, to our key waiter who was marvellous - keen, patient, informative, efficient. He even managed to convince us that desserts were worth a look.
The raspberry creme brulee reinstated my faith in a dessert that has become all too common. Banque's version comes with little freshly fried date and apple fritters to ensure it is elevated above the ordinary. But it was the honey tart that I adored even more - the pastry case was a wonderfully short crust, tender and buttery, filled with ground almonds and honey, with roasted apricots to top it off. It felt like a late-season gift from the last of the summer fruit.
At Banque Oyster Bar & Eatery they're not quite telling the truth - this isn't "good, honest food", it's great. And the oyster bar is adding much more than a mere gesture to a trend for such things - it's the real deal.
From the menu: Bluff oysters $5 each, Diamond shell clams $2 each, Sugar cane prawn pops $14, Shredded roasted duck pancake $13, Sticky lamb ribs $14, Shredded spiced chicken and papaya salad $18, Roasted duckling $31, Fries $7, Raspberry creme brulee $12, Honey tart with roasted apricot $12
Drinks: Fully licensed
- VIVA