Jesse Mulligan Restaurant Recommendations: Where To Eat In Dunedin; For A 30th Birthday


By Jesse Mulligan
Viva
Tala restaurant in Parnell could be a good spot for a 30th birthday dinner. Photo / Babiche Martens

In this fortnightly series, Viva’s resident dining-out editor shares advice on where and what to eat.

Do you have any restaurant-related questions or dining-out dilemmas? Jesse Mulligan is here to help.

Email Jesse at Viva@nzherald.co.nz and tell him what you need. Where and what do you like to

Here are some questions he’s been asked lately and his answers.

Mt Eden's Brothers Beer and Juke Joint. Photo / Guy Coombes
Mt Eden's Brothers Beer and Juke Joint. Photo / Guy Coombes

Hi Jesse,

I know you’re a Grey Lynn boy. I’ve driven past Smoking Shack a few times on the way to football and wondered if it’s any good.

Glen

Glen,

I ate at Smoking Shack recently and they have a lovely team at a handy location, but I’m not sure they’ve got the barbecue technique right yet – I’m afraid almost everything I ate was overdone and underflavoured. If you’re keen on beer and meat, I’d feel more comfortable sending you across the Bond St bridge to visit Full Time Sports Bar, where they have a number of smoky delicacies to choose from, or even better head to Juke Joint, the Brothers Beer brewery restaurant a little further away in Mt Eden.

I haven’t been to Morepork out west yet, but am keen to hear from readers on this or any other slow barbecue places I should know about.

Hi Jesse

I’m visiting my son in Dunedin next month and wondered if you could give me a few pointers for good food in the city. Not so interested in the top end, but keen on some student-friendly daytime eating.

Katie

Hi Katie,

Look out for my review this Wednesday of a fun destination restaurant in Dunedin that may be right up your alley.

Aside from that, the best food I’ve eaten in Dunedin recently was at Vanguard Specialty Coffee, a lovely light-filled cafe at the south end of Princes St. I had the vege bowl, which was wonderful – fresh, delicious whole food like avocado, fried cauli, halloumi and pickles. Staff are friendly and it’s far enough from the university that your son may not have discovered it on his own yet.

At the other end of the city, the locals insisted I try Re Burger, a local success story with almost no service at all (you order from a machine), but where the burgers are awesome: charred and crispy smash patties with loads of sauce and cheese but not too many other distracting ingredients. You’ll probably be the oldest person there, like I was! But it’s a fun spot for a simple, delicious feed for lunch or even early dinner.

One of Tala's tasting menu dishes: Raw Ramen, Taro Chip, Banana Chip. Photo /  Babiche Martens
One of Tala's tasting menu dishes: Raw Ramen, Taro Chip, Banana Chip. Photo / Babiche Martens

Hey Jesse,

I need some recommendations for a restaurant for my 30th.

There will just be a small group of 4-5, but I’m looking for somewhere new and special.

Last year, we went to Gilt, which was amazing. Currently, I’m trying to decide between Ahi, Kingi, Onslow and Oyster Inn.

Is there somewhere else you think would be better?

Cheers,

Richard

Hi Richard,

Regular readers will know I always endorse Ahi, and Onslow is a lovely spot too if you haven’t been.

But I reckon if you want something new and special, you should go to Tala, a sacred restaurant space in Parnell, where chef Henry Onesemo creates dishes inspired by memories of Samoa. The service team are exceptional and this is real event dining. It’s not quite the noisy bustling environment you might get at some of those other places and, for that reason, you’ll need to consider whether it’s right for you … perhaps you should go for a fun dinner at Rhu nearby one night and ask if you can pop in for a glass of wine at Tala to get an idea of the vibe?

Speaking of wine, I said this about Tala in February last year:

“But there’s a big problem with the wine list, which is much too expensive. If you’re drinking white, your starting price for a glass is $33 – or you can choose the other option at $41. I can’t understand why they’ve done things this way, as it’s a huge barrier to enjoyment and, I have to say, to returning. I noticed the couple next to us did the same as we did – ordering a cheaper ($26) cocktail with their early courses, then one pinot noir with the later ones – that pinot a comparative steal at $19. There are a couple of lower-priced bottles on the list and I think they need to open these tonight and start offering them by the glass – unhappy local diners don’t complain, but nor do they return.”

Richard, Tala got in touch shortly afterwards to confirm they’ve made changes for the better, so if you’re reading my old review as background, please bear this in mind.

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