Studio Realm owner Miss Purple kitted out people for the Steampunk Festival held in Ōamaru over Kings Birthday Weekend. Photo / Dean Purcell

Some might call it fantastical. Others might call it bizarre. However, for thousands of New Zealanders who engage in the whimsical world of Steampunk, it’s an opportunity to unapologetically freely fly their freak flags. But what exactly is it about this post-apocalyptic subculture that continues to draw people from all ages and backgrounds? Fashion director Dan Ahwa reports from Ōamaru at its annual Steampunk Festival, the longest-running Steampunk event in the Southern Hemisphere.

Studio Realm owner Miss Purple kitted out people for the Steampunk Festival held in Ōamaru over Kings Birthday Weekend. Photo / Dean Purcell

Some might call it fantastical. Others might call it bizarre. However, for thousands of New Zealanders who engage in the whimsical world of Steampunk, it’s an opportunity to unapologetically freely fly their freak flags. But what exactly is it about this post-apocalyptic subculture that continues to draw people from all ages and backgrounds? Fashion director Dan Ahwa reports from Ōamaru at its annual Steampunk Festival, the longest-running Steampunk event in the Southern Hemisphere.

Paris, London, New York, Milan, Berlin, Shanghai, Tokyo, Stockholm, Kuala Lumpur, Sydney, Suva. I’ve been around the world for the past 17 years to report on fashion, but I have never felt as underdressed as I did in Ōamaru.

There for a weekend during the annual Steampunk Festival, I arrived at one of its scheduled events to interview its founding forefather, Iain Clark aka Agent Darling at the ‘League of Victorian Imagineers’ Mess Dinner — dressed in a Huffer anorak, jeans and a pair of hiking boots. On my head was not a bowler hat but my lucky Roger Federer cap. I’d intentionally come unprepared, mentally telling myself that it was better this way. To leave my preconceived notions behind in judgmental Auckland. My job was to listen and observe from the sidelines. To be the wallflower at the orgy.

“Look, mate, I hope you’re coming to the other ball tomorrow night with something to wear because you really do stick out like a sore thumb,” chimed in one guest dressed in a top hat and tuxedo tails embellished with a medley of badges and trinkets (some of which if you squinted hard enough, could be misinterpreted as something entirely problematic). A tartan kilt wrapped around his waist only just covered spindly legs covered in fishnet tights and a pair of winklepicker brogues with steel-cap toes. He’d come from Christchurch for the weekend.

Looking around the room at the 100-odd guests bedecked in costumes that signalled their interpretation of Steampunk, I ask Iain’s partner, Helen Jansen — aka La Falconesse — whether there’s any actual difference between the cosplay we all adopt when we get dressed in the morning and the cosplay of getting dressed in Steampunk. Isn’t everyday life about assuming some type of alter ego whenever we get dressed to face another day?

Steampunk Festival founders Iain Clark and Helen Jansen during the Steampunk Festival held in Ōamaru over King’s Birthday Weekend. Photo / Dean Purcell

Steampunk Festival founders Iain Clark and Helen Jansen during the Steampunk Festival held in Ōamaru over King’s Birthday Weekend. Photo / Dean Purcell

People attend the Steampunk Festival held in Ōamaru over King’s Birthday Weekend. Photo / Dean Purcell

People attend the Steampunk Festival held in Ōamaru over King’s Birthday Weekend. Photo / Dean Purcell

Carl Yates aka Sir Gideon Steamcrank attends the Steampunk Festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

Carl Yates aka Sir Gideon Steamcrank attends the Steampunk Festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

“Steampunk creates an alter ego and it enables people to do things they wouldn’t normally do in their own egos,” says Helen, who along with Iain and a coterie of other Steampunk enthusiasts known as the League of Victorian Imagineers, instigated the largest and longest-running Steampunk event in the Southern Hemisphere, which has inspired the formation of an additional 22 other Steampunk chapters around the country, from Thames to Invercargill.

“We’ve seen the most remarkable transformations of people, their self-development and their achievements over the years,” says Helen. “People who have grown from the shiest people to the most flamboyant.”

So it’s helped with their self-esteam? I joke.

“Yes, I believe that is a very apt term for what we do.”

The four-day Steampunk Festival is a highlight on the international Steampunk calendar with visitors ascending upon Ōamaru from as far as Germany, the US, Malaysia and Australia. Locally, the majority seem to come from Christchurch, including Carl Yates, aka Sir Gideon Steamcrank, of the Cog and Compass Society, who has been coming to Ōamaru’s Steampunk Festival with wife Yvonne for the past three years, and is one of the organisers of Chrictchurch’s Fantasizer’s Festival in Riccarton Park, the Garden City’s own Steampunk extravaganza. His mission, according to the Cog and Compass Society website, is “to create a vibrant community filled with boundless curiosity and camaraderie, where the imaginative spirit stretches to infinity. Together, we celebrate the ingenuity, creativity and inventiveness of past and futuristic possibilities.”

Steampunk Festival founders Iain Clark and Helen Jansen during the Steampunk Festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

Steampunk Festival founders Iain Clark and Helen Jansen during the Steampunk Festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

People attend the Steampunk Festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

People attend the Steampunk Festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

Jill Arbuckle from Steampunk HQ. Photo / Dean Purcell

Jill Arbuckle from Steampunk HQ. Photo / Dean Purcell

For this year’s Steampunk Festival, Carl is treating the fashion like an Olympic category, with up to three intricate outfit changes a day.

“When we came down to Ōamaru for the first time, we came with two changes of clothing and did the entire weekend with those two changes,” says Carl. “Now when we come down, we really get involved.” Carl’s flamboyant sense of style is considered high Steampunk, with several of his outfits created by experienced tailors and designers complemented by his own assortment of make-shift trinkets, one of them an old Victorian clock — symbolic of the genre’s obsessions with time travel and the future.

His outfits during the week fit him well, made from a range of unique fabrics that are hard to come by. It’s clear during the weekend there is also an economic divide when it comes to Steampunk fashion, not unlike an episode of Ru Paul’s Drag Race. Some have more budget to spend on sumptuous fabrics, sometimes outsourcing to a tailor or a seamstress. Others have to contend with a hot glue gun and plastic plants from Temu. Despite the disparity, everyone is still united in their collective efforts to keep the fantasy alive.

“We don’t expect to see everyone sew everything by hand because we don’t expect them to necessarily have that skill,” says Iain.

For Jill Arbuckle, who manages operations at Steampunk HQ, the art gallery/museum housed inside the former grain elevator building built in 1881, dressing the part of Steampunk is a sustainable form of cosplay.

Emma Stone as Bella Baxter in Poor Things (2023). Photo / Searchlight Pictures

Emma Stone as Bella Baxter in Poor Things (2023). Photo / Searchlight Pictures

“Most people make their own, which is a real labour of love,” she says. “For me, I op-shop. I like to find things second-hand and collect items that might work with what I already own. I’ve lived in Ōamaru all my life and I find it just quirky. Anything goes, you can take on a persona — it’s an escape. The clothing feels quite regal.”

In some ways, Steampunk’s popularity in New Zealand could be seen as a simple middle finger to Jandals and stubbies. If you needed even further convincing, the premise behind director Yorgos Lanthimos’s Poor Things starring Emma Stone, addresses much of the liberation that comes from Steampunk’s quest to loosen the corsetry of Victorian repression.“New Zealanders are conservative,” says Carl. “Steampunk allows a person who is conservative to create a version of themselves that isn’t vulnerable.”

So, Sir Gideon Steamcrank is his version of what Sasha Fierce is to Beyonce?

“Quite right,” says Carl. “You can talk to people you’ve never talked to before. You have confidence and you’re actually very safe. You’re not going to get ridiculed because you’re among people you can say hello to without judgment. It’s empowering. Because it’s all about originality. There’s no hard or fast way on how you do Steampunk. It’s how you interpret the Victorian imagery of moving into the future.”

Fashion has long been inspired by the Steampunk movement, including this collection from John Galliano's fall 2010 collection for Dior featuring Victorian elements reminiscent of the Industrial Revolution. Photo / Getty Images

Fashion has long been inspired by the Steampunk movement, including this collection from John Galliano's fall 2010 collection for Dior featuring Victorian elements reminiscent of the Industrial Revolution. Photo / Getty Images

But is it moving into the future? While Iain and Helen have pulled back their involvement in recent years, handing much of the organisation to the Steampunk NZ Trust, the growth of the festival is something they are proud of.

“We thought our first festival was going to be a total disaster, with only 12 tickets sold. To have a sell-out event in this day and age is remarkable,” says Iain. “It’s gone from strength to strength. Obviously, Covid was devastating for a lot of events, and ours was no different, but after that period had finished, we thought it was going to take a little while before the ball was rolling again. But it just hit the ground running. People just picked up where they left off.”

Ōamaru’s Victorian heritage buildings made from its famous local Ōamaru stone provide the perfect backdrop for the event but do require more consideration around the week’s programming — which this year included a fashion parade and teapot racing held inside the old Scottish Hall on Tyne St. “Ōamaru is limited to a certain number of venues and capacity,” says Iain, “so we have to be mindful of that. It’s something we can’t control.”

The fashion has also evolved since its debut in 2009, ironically, with the advancement of technology. A berry juice extractor strapped to the back of Sharon Gaynor aka Florence Brewer — the supreme winner of the Steampunk Fashion Parade — was printed on a 3D printing machine.

“We usually leave the interpretation of Steampunk up to people,” says Iain, who is also an award-winning jeweller. “I tend think about an everyday object and how it would look in the Steampunk era. How would it be powered? An iPhone, for example, would probably be made of dark stained wood and leather and brass trim.”

But while Iain might be something of a Steampunk purist, like most sub-cultures, there should be room to evolve. “I hope the next generation can carry that on and are inspired by what they see.”

“It’s important for me to be part of the local culture but also celebrate my identity too.” Sumant Bhouraskar attends the Steampunk Festival in Ōamaru. Photo / Dean Purcell

“It’s important for me to be part of the local culture but also celebrate my identity too.” Sumant Bhouraskar attends the Steampunk Festival in Ōamaru. Photo / Dean Purcell

It’s an evolution seen by the punters too.

In our survey of our favourite street-style looks from the event, it was clear there was a new generation of Steampunk fans not obsessed by some of the archaic, often romanticised Victorian tropes of white aristocracy.

Sumant Bhouraskar has not been living in Ōamaru long but has immersed himself top hat first into the Steampunk community. For the weekend’s official parade, Sumant wore a look inspired by the only Indian Steampunk character from Jules Verne’s other seminal novel 20,000 Leagues under the Sea, Captain Nemo, a prince who represented a counteract to the tyranny of colonialism — particularly the British Empire.

“I recently moved to Ōamaru to work for Waitaki Network and I’ve only been here for a month,” says Sumant. “I wanted to immerse myself in the culture here and be part of the community. We have a market on the weekend and I took part in the parade. It’s important for me to be part of the local culture but also celebrate my identity too.”

Another first-timer was Vania Wong from Dunedin, whose outfit was a tribute to another strand of Steampunk — Japanese Steampunkc— combining the Lolita-style popularised by Harajuku-street style with a Victorian twist.

“I get absolutely full of emotion and delight when I see the number of people who come here for the first time,” says Helen “I’m just blown away.”

“Steampunk is a really great outlet for creativity. I have a reason to craft.” Fashion Parade supreme winner Sharon Gaynor, aka Florence Brewer, during Ōamaru’s annual festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

“Steampunk is a really great outlet for creativity. I have a reason to craft.” Fashion Parade supreme winner Sharon Gaynor, aka Florence Brewer, during Ōamaru’s annual festival. Photo / Dean Purcell

For Sharon’s daughter, Jamie, who represents another new generation voice, Steampunk is not only something she can do with her mother, but is an opportunity to help redefine what it means for the future.

“I think Steampunk is really cool for acknowledging a lot of different histories,” says Jamie, whose fashion-show entry this year consisted of a onesie layered underneath a crinoline that housed a terrarium in acknowledgment of the festival’s theme this year: Botanical Mechanical.

“There’s no reason for it to be solely English-inspired. There are influences from Native Americans and from China. You can time travel between different places too and it allows you to reimagine Steampunk.”

But is Steampunk classist? A Victorian upper-crust gentleman’s folly?

“It’s usually quite formal,” says Iain. “You don’t tend to get too many street sweepers in Steampunk.

The formality may, however, have confused some visitors. One couple walked past dressed like Bonnie and Clyde. Another man walked past in a straw boater and a rowing blazer as if heading out to drink Pimms on the terrace. Other outfits though veered toward the questionable.

One first-timer who had come dressed as an impoverished prostitute, members of Victorian society problematically glamorised on film and TV as nameless footnotes in the autobiography of Jack the Ripper. Another couple strode down the festival’s parade wearing colonial hunting attire complete with pith helmets and a briefcase adorned with a makeshift gun.

But subcultures will always have their issues to reckon with and it’s how they evolve that matters.

I, too, had my reservations about what I would witness that weekend in a town where the majority of its citizens refuse to pronounce Ōamaru correctly.I figured the best way to enjoy the festival finale, the Clockwork Forest Steampunk Ball, was to at least adhere to the dress code.

I ditched my jeans and Huffer anorak for a black kilt made from upcycled and locally sourced leather purchased from Studio Realm on Harbour Street, where its owner, Miss Purple, is a true Steampunk original. Her signature one-sided braid and apocalyptic style could be something plucked out of the wardrobe of Stevie Nicks or present-day apocalyptic dresser Julia Fox.

Worn over a pair of black jeans and layered underneath a sweater and Zambesi blazer, it may have been an Auckland fashion editor’s version of Steampunk. If what everyone was telling me that weekend about self-expression and personal interpretation was gospel, then my version of Steampunk was fine.

But if there was one takeaway from the weekend that stayed with me, it was on Saturday afternoon inside the old Scottish Hall during the teapot racing competition that followed the parasol duelling.

Lying on the floor with their wide-eyed heads propped up on their elbows was a row of children between 5-10. What it must be like to see the world of Steampunk through a child’s point of view.

As contestants of all ages competed in the race with their whimsical teapot creations constructed with remote-controlled engines, trying to manoeuvre them precariously around an obstacle course; the adults, in particular, set the tone for their kids. In so few words they signalled to them that no matter the challenges as you age, there’s always time for play.

Surely that counts for something.

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Eddie King aka’ CDR Thaddeus R. Cloudstrider attends the Steampunk Ball.

Eddie King aka’ CDR Thaddeus R. Cloudstrider attends the Steampunk Ball.

Teapot racing during the Steampunk festival.

Teapot racing during the Steampunk festival.

Dan Ahwa is Viva’s fashion and creative director and a senior premium lifestyle journalist for the New Zealand Herald, specialising in fashion, luxury, arts and culture. He is also an award-winning stylist with more than 17 years of experience, and is a co-author and co-curator of The New Zealand Fashion Museum’s Moana Currents: Dressing Aotearoa Now.

Words | Dan Ahwa
Photos | Dean Purcell
Digital Design | Laura Hutchins