Wanganui RSA's rum and coffee committee is more like a club - with its closely guarded membership, its banter and its many traditions.
The custom of supplying the crowd with rum and coffee after Wanganui's annual Anzac Day service began way back in 1936, according to Steve Vautier's history. That makes the club - or committee - 75 years old.
It has had some interesting traditions, which may partly explain its appeal. One is a mayoral bottle of whiskey provided before the coffee is brewed. Another is a sumptuous cooked breakfast, also served then.
It's not clear whether those customs persist, but there was a faint smell of toast wafting around Wanganui's War Memorial Hall at 4.30am yesterday.
Inside were men in pinnies and men in defence force jerseys preparing the traditional refreshments.
They set out tables, put cracker biscuits and cheese on plates and started many litres of water boiling in three antique coppers in the hall kitchen.
The coppers have been stored in the RSA basement for decades and were converted to electricity by Alan Strong. When the water is hot kilos of coffee grounds are added, enclosed in mutton cloth. They simmer away as the service unfolds. The secret ingredients of salt and mustard are added "to bring out the flavour".
Meanwhile, litres of milk are heating to just the right temperature in an urn. It is combined with the hot coffee in large enamel teapots, with the rum poured in last.
Charlie Lamont is the convenor of the group. He served in Vietnam, "the forgotten war" in 1968 and 69. The other 10 (up to 12) are all veterans or service members.
The first Anzac Day parade and service in Wanganui, in 1936, was only attended by veterans. Two guineas was spent on refreshments - probably rum.
After 1960 the refreshments were served in the new War Memorial Hall. It was a lot of work in those days, because hundreds of cups and saucers had to be washed and dried. These days disposables are used and it's easier.
When members of the public started attending along with veterans the committee started providing tea as well as coffee, with milo or cordial for the children.