While some eateries shine in the summer sun, others are best during winter. Alexia Santamaria chats to five top Kiwi chefs and foodies about where to go this winter
When the temperatures fall and summer barbecues are a distant memory, there’s only one place to take comfort – andthat’s in the arms of a cosy restaurant or bar with soul-warming food. Sure, we all love ceviche and bubbles in the sun, but there’s equal joy in a good negroni by a roaring fire on a perfectly worn leather couch, or a luscious lamb shank bathed in sauce in a moodily lit restaurant. We asked some well-known New Zealand foodies where they love to go in their region when the mercury drops.
Simon Levy – Christchurch
Simon Levy from INATI. Photo / Jerome Warburton
Simon Levy is the co-owner and executive chef at INATI, one of Christchurch’s most popular fine dining spots. Some of his favourite places to visit in colder months are the North Canterbury Wineries. “A delicious bottle of wine by the fire at Pegasus Bay, is so warm and cosy on a cold winter’s day – or a long lunch at Black Estate or Greystone, overlooking the vineyards and the Waipara countryside.” His family favourite, now becoming a regular go-to for the INATI team, is South Garden on Brake St. “This is the most authentic Chinese. It’s big and always busy for yum cha. I go so frequently with my family, the owner and staff know me by name and always manage to squeeze us in!” He’s a fan of dim sum, Shanghai dumplings or black pepper tripe, and for larger groups, says the Peking duck is always an absolute must. “It’s loud and bursting with authenticity, which is what makes it so fun!”
Sam Low, NZ MasterChef winner, book author and host of the Ate Ate Ate podcast, loves to hole up at Tanpopo Ramen in Tāmaki Makaurau’s CBD. “It’s like stepping out of Auckland and into another world. It’s small, warm and cosy. My favourite order is miso ramen – it’s so rich and savoury and packed with collagen! The broth wraps you up in this warm comfort from that first sip.” For a drink, he rates Panacea on O’Connell St as one of the cosiest cocktail bars in the city. “Even though it’s an expansive space, it feels more like a stylish secret apartment with comfy lounges and private areas. The cocktail kitchen serves complex, pre-batched, really refined cocktails. My favourite is anything from their barrel-aged selection.”
Emma Walters and Brad King – Coromandel
Emma Walters and Brad King run the Bistro at The Falls Retreat. Photo / Brydie Photography
Emma Walters and Brad King run the Bistro at The Falls Retreat – an amazing winter spot in itself, with a rustic barn and a big log fire to sip their mulled wine in front of. Their picks? The Refinery in Paeroa set in a historic building. “It’s a retro cafe just off the main street, playing great vinyl tunes from a record player. There’s cabinet food as well as a menu called ‘not just eggs bene’,” says Walters. ”It’s perfect for cosying up in front of their fire on comfy chairs with a hot coffee after you’ve browsed the antique stores.” They also love Camina in Whangamatā. “They do great bar snacks and sharing plates with whatever is in season. The lamb loin skewers with spiced eggplant and buttermilk dressing they cook on their wood-fired grill are so good. It’s a tiny spot with an interior and food that wouldn’t be out of place in Auckland or Melbourne but also real local heart, because of the owners, Rowan and Barend. The best place to sit is definitely at the pass, to watch the chefs create their magic over flame.”
Beth Brash – Wellington
Beth Brash is head of programming and event delivery for Visa Wellington On a Plate.
Beth Brash, festival director of Visa Wellington On a Plate (back this August), reckons Wellington excels at the “Great Indoors” thanks to unpredictable and inclement weather. When it’s cold, she loves Dee’s Place for something “served down and boozy” [Dee’s specialises in American whiskeys and cocktails]. “It’s subterranean, so it really doesn’t matter if it’s winter, summer or a cyclone – the experience is always excellent." Her other favourite cosy cocktail spot is Hawthorne Lounge, where an open fire burns through the winter months, making you want to stay and stay. “They’re just around the corner from KC Cafe, so I love to head there first – or afterwards – for something comforting and spicy, like Eggplant Claypot or Hot and Spicy Soup.”
Beth Brash rates Dee’s Place in Wellington for subterranean whiskey comfort.
Vaughan Mabee – Queenstown
Vaughan Mabee, the executive chef at Amisfield Restaurant in Queenstown.
Vaughan Mabee, executive head chef at Amisfield – recently voted third-best restaurant in the world by US Food & Wine – is a fan of Arrowtown icon The Blue Door for a winter drink in its low-lit interior. “There’s no better place for a glass of red by the fire than that comfortable leather sofa – except Amisfield, of course!” For good food on a chilly day, he heads to Kappa Japanese. “I love that cosy Japanese vibe, especially if you sit up at the counter and watch the chefs in action. Chef Nao is a total legend. It’s so good when he has eggplant cooked on the hibachi or miso broth with langoustines on the menu – some of the best dishes anywhere in town.” And where does New Zealand’s top chef go for a soul-warming winter pie? Vaughan swears by Fergbakers’ Steak, Mushroom & Blue Cheese version – you heard it here.
Arrowtown's Blue Door bar is a must visit if you're in the area. Photo / Isabella Rubie Photography
