Blotted, blurred and lived-in, or ultra-precise and razor sharp, a swipe of black eyeliner always delivers. Here, makeup artist Leisa Welch shares her favourite liner looks to try now, plus tips on how to tailor them to suit a multitude of eye shapes.
Beauty trends come and go, but there’s
No matter the format, the shade or the finish, eyeliner is easily one of the most versatile products in any beauty aficionado’s arsenal.
Liquid or kohl are the most common formats, with the latter being a go-to for ultra-defined lines for feline flicks, while kohl is more easily blendable to create a smoked-out look.
As far as shades go, black remains a perennial favourite but a number of makeup brands have revealed liners in every colour of the rainbow - from acid brights through to buttery pastels.
For Auckland-based hair and makeup artist Leisa Welch, eyeliner and a handful of base products was all that was needed to create the series of graphic looks evidenced in this Viva exclusive shoot.
Dreamed up in collaboration with photographer Carolyn Haslett and stylist Tori Ambler, the result is a coterie of high-impact looks which highlight the endless possibilities when it comes to eyeliner.
Below, Leisa shares the preparation behind and process of creating these eight dynamic eyeliner looks - from floating double liner to negative space liner and everything in between.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.The Brief
For this series of looks, I wanted to explore different eye shapes while maintaining a strong, graphic element throughout.
To create cohesion, we kept the styling consistent by using black eyeliner and black clothing. This allowed the focus to remain on the structure of the liner, emphasising form and contrast.
Beyond technique we gave each model a subtle character to embody, which helped bring the eyeliner designs to life.
From tomboy to slightly punk-y to a little bit of a diva, these personalities influenced both the styling and the makeup choices. This helped ensure that each look felt distinct while still aligning with the overall graphic and cohesive theme.
Preparation & Technique
Before applying any liner, I always prep the eyes with foundation and an eye primer to create a smooth, even base.
Getting symmetrical liner can be tricky, so l often map out the shape with a kohl pencil first. I’ll tweak it with cotton tips until I’m happy with the design, then go over it using a liquid or gel graphic liner.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.For precision, I clean up the edges with fine-pointed cotton tips and sharpen the lines using a tiny flat brush and concealer - this really refines the finish and makes the lines pop.
Application Approach
When applying eyeliner, I always ask the model to look straight ahead. This allows me to see how the liner will actually sit when the eyes are open, helping me ensure the lines are visible, even, and flattering.
Perfect symmetry is rarely possible because no one’s eyes are exactly alike — I’ve learned to “fudge” it slightly to achieve balance.
Working With Eye Shapes
I chose liner shapes that suit each model’s individual features, aiming to elongate the eyes or create interesting graphic designs that align with the overall styling.
I don’t let different eye shapes hold me back — with the right approach, liner can work on nearly every eye.
That said, it does get more difficult when eyes start to droop, as the lid can interfere with the clean line, but there are always workarounds.
Colour Preferences
While I love a bold black liner for editorial or statement looks, I also really enjoy working with neutral tones.
Browns, plums, and burgundies are softer, more wearable alternatives that are easier to execute. They work beautifully for daytime looks or when paired with warm, golden tones to create a softer, glam feel.
Get The Look
I used a combination of Bobbi Brown, M.A.C and Stila liners to create the eyeliner shapes, while skin and lips were kept pared back and neutral to ensure eyes remained the hero.
CREDITS
Photographer | Carolyn Haslett
Hair and makeup | Leisa Welch
Beauty editor | Ashleigh Cometti
Styling | Tori Ambler
Models | Olive Mackenzie; Lin Shuang from 62 Model Management; Chloe Pollard from Unique.
More beauty
Meet 12 people who smell good share their signature scents, or discover the TikTok viral hair growth range which has landed in Aotearoa.
What Perfume Are You Wearing? 12 Of Aotearoa’s Coolest Creatives Share Their Favourite Fragrance. Scent has always been inherently personal, and for these 12 creatives it’s part of their identity.
Is pH Reactive Makeup The Secret To Faking A Healthy, Natural-Looking Flush In Winter? Chameleon beauty products have ushered in a new era of makeup customisation, but how do they work exactly? And are they worth the hype? Ashleigh Cometti investigates.
Indy Clinton’s Bouf Haircare Has Landed In Aotearoa. Co-Founder Rachael Wilde Shares What To Expect From The Range. The beauty boss shares her excitement with beauty editor Ashleigh Cometti over her selection of cherry-red hair growth products launching in Aotearoa New Zealand.
New & Noteworthy: The 10 Buzziest Beauty Products To Launch In 2025 (So Far). Local beauty brands and global conglomerates have brought their A-game so far this year. Here’s the new launches worth knowing (and trying) in 2025 and beyond.
Opinion: Is It Time We Start Being Honest About Our Cosmetic & Surgical Procedures? Transparency is trending. Off the back of Kylie Jenner’s cosmetic confessions, Ashleigh Cometti has questions.
