4 Common Skincare Myths Debunked, According To A Formulation Expert

Can sensitive skin types use acids? Are dry skin and dehydrated skin the same thing? Should we listen to skincare trends? An expert weighs in.

There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to skincare, and no one understands this quite like Drunk Elephant’s Nathan Rivas.

The frustrated consumer turned cosmetic chemist was one of the early employees of the brand, which was founded by Tiffany Masterton in 2012 in Houston, Texas.

As the president of global research and product development, Rivas divides his time between the library and laboratory, fastidious in his approach to formulating skincare, ensuring products find the sweet spot between industry want and consumer need.

Who better then to debunk four common skincare myths and offer pragmatic advice on what to do instead? Here are Rivas’ top tips.

Myth 1: Certain skincare ingredients are ‘bad’ for skin

Drunk Elephant has its own list of six ingredients that won’t crop up in its formulas or feature on its product’s INCI (ingredients) lists, but Rivas is quick to assert that such ingredients aren’t dangerous to skin health.

“For example, exposure to high amounts of essential oils or fragrances can make your skin less able to tolerate vitamin C, AHAs/BHA, or retinol that it would normally be able to benefit from,” he says.

Drunk Elephant’s decision to avoid certain ingredients isn’t designed to incite fear in consumers, Rivas adds, explaining how some skincare brands talk about what they avoid by labelling some ingredients as “toxic” or “dangerous” in their descriptions.

Rather, Rivas recommends seeking out formulas loaded with biocompatible ingredients – or those that have as close as possible a counterpart in skin.

He says ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is the best example of this, explaining that some forms are chemically identical to the ascorbic acid found naturally in skin. Using biocompatible ingredients “translates to typically more efficient, speedier results than ingredients that are less biocompatible”, he says.

Derivatives can still be “absolutely effective”, he says, but they need to go through a few additional steps to be translated by skin into a form that works best.

“That’s why we will use higher concentrations of derivatives to compensate for what’s lost in that translation,” he adds.

Myth 2: Skincare routines should be static

Rivas maintains one of the best parts of his role in product development is being able to try different formulas – and the same can be said of your skincare routine.

Instead, Rivas recommends mixing or layering pH-compatible products.

The only exception to layering products is where occlusives and silicones are concerned, which Rivas says can potentially slow down or prevent the absorption of actives.

More is not always more, though, and Rivas warns that in some cases, adding certain actives means subbing others out. A skincare routine can be a movable feast, one which changes with the seasons or shifts in lifestyle. The key is being able to recognise when tweaks are needed and respond accordingly with the gentlest of approaches.

“As a result of having more actives in my skincare routine, it meant I couldn’t use certain ingredients anymore. But I’m not the only person who’s in that boat. Some people can’t use ascorbic acid [vitamin C] at a 15% [concentration] and others don’t like it from a texture perspective. It can be a little tacky,” he says.

“That’s the nature of the beast for this ingredient at this percentage. Some of these things are deal breakers for [consumers].”

Myth 3: Dry skin and dehydrated skin are the same thing

It’s a commonly held misconception that dry skin and dehydrated skin are one and the same. The nuances between the two can be difficult to discern at times, but the truth remains: dry skin lacks lipids (or oils) while dehydrated skin lacks water.

Dehydrated skin is a temporary skin condition, while dry skin is a skin type lacking in natural oils. For example, you can have an oily/combination skin type and experience dehydration.

The hallmarks of dehydrated skin include dullness, loss of elasticity and fine lines and wrinkles, while dry skin can appear flaky, scaly, red or irritated.

In both cases, hydration should be a priority, Rivas says. In the same way that many people tote around an emotional support water bottle, all skin types should use products to give their skin a daily hydration boost.

He adds some people may experience chronic dehydration, the underlying cause of which can be properly diagnosed by a GP or dermatologist.

“Some of us can never maintain water levels, which is why we always seem to be dehydrated and our skin always feels tight no matter what we do to it,” he says.

Myth 4: Sensitive skin types can’t use acids

If there’s only one takeaway from this story, Rivas says let it be this: if you have sensitive skin, you don’t need to steer clear of acids.

“Sometimes acids have a bad reputation – some of it is well deserved – but there are safe actives and acids that are foolproof. They can be helpful without irritation,” Rivas says.

There’s another element that consumers may not know about, Rivas adds, explaining that sometimes it’s not the fault of the acids that certain skin types react to their use.

In many cases, there are other elements in the formula that are contributors, Rivas says, like a sensitivity to high levels of fragrance or alcohols, a reaction caused by other supporting ingredients, or other products in a skincare routine that are tipping the scales into the realm of irritation.

Concentration levels also have a lot to answer for.

“A 10% concentration of AHA [alpha hydroxy acids] may be out of reach for you. So looking at lower-percentage AHA, or maybe a milder AHA like lactic acid is a better bet,” Rivas says.

“Sometimes it’s the type of acid, the concentration or strength of the acid, the frequency, or what else they have in the routine that can be leading to a reaction.”

If you’re using retinol daily, then it might not be possible to use even a mild AHA frequently, so Rivas advises baby-stepping those actives into your routine one at a time.

“Throw one active in at a very casual pace, maybe twice a week and see how your skin responds. If it’s responding well, then maybe up the concentration or frequency. Or you can stay exactly where it’s at. Finding the right balance for you is a matter of trial and error.”

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