On a luxury rail trip to Switzerland, Juliet Rix experiences Excellence Class on the Glacier Express.

Dark mountainsides striped with pure white snow fill the panoramic windows and rise into the skylight before giving way to bright blue sky, marked only by a couple of strips of chiffon cloud that run down to the peaks like heaven's ski pistes.

"Would you like a drink? Water or champagne?" It was 9am aboard the Glacier Express and we'd just left St Moritz, with eight hours to go to Zermatt. I was travelling in the train's Excellence Class — new this year —

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