Anna Harrison checks into The Murray, Hong Kong.
Getting there: The Murray is right in the middle of Central in the heart of Hong Kong, a 30-minute taxi ride from the airport. When it was built in the 60s it was one of the tallest buildings in the area with 27 storeys. Now it's dwarfed by skyscrapers on every side but it doesn't feel hemmed in as you look out to the greenery of Hong Kong Park on one side, and the sprawling St John's Cathedral on the other, giving it plenty of breathing room.
History: The modernist building is a landmark with its sweeping arches and recessed windows lauded for their energy-efficient design. The brainchild of British architect Ron Phillips in 1969, it's now been refitted into a luxury hotel with 336 rooms by Foster + Partners.
Check in experience: Attentive doormen are quick to welcome you under the iconic arches and into the lobby. It's stunning with soaring glass windows on one side, marble walls on the other and a hanging charcoal art installation. Korean artist Bahk Seon-Ghi's Aggregation draws your eye up to appreciate the grandeur of the setting. The first impression is enough to wow me.
The room: Mine was 1609, on the 16th floor. The rooms are angled so every room gets a great view through one of the recessed windows the building is famous for. They're spacious studios elegantly fitted-out with designer furniture, luxurious bathroom fittings and velvet cushions.
The bed: Big, plush and super-comfortable, with buttons next to it to swap the sheer blinds for blackout ones and to control all the lights.
The bathroom: This is the bathroom of my dreams and the first thing I did when I arrived was take a photo to gloat about to friends back home. It's all Italian marble walls, a huge freestanding bath, metallic rain-shower, bidet, huge mirror and a range of toiletries by Australian organic skincare brand Grown Alchemist. It also featured a wall of magic glass that went translucent at the push of a button.
Noise: Very quiet, couldn't hear a thing.
Free Wi-Fi: Of course.
Food and drink: The hotel has five different eateries. There's the upmarket Tai Pan, which does an incredible breakfast with everything from comb honey with fruits, cheeses and freshly baked pastries, to a full hot breakfast menu. The nearby Garden Lounge offers light lunches and high teas in a more relaxed setting. The Murray Lane bar downstairs oozes sophistication with its gold touches and mirrored walls, boasting an impeccable selection of spirits and cocktails. I enjoyed a citrusy Murray '75 inspired by the century-old Java cassia tree outside.
The rooftop bar Popinjays and Chinese restaurant Guo Fu Lou weren't open when I stayed soon after it opened, but are due to open mid-year.
Service: Warm, accommodating and intuitive. Staff remembered my name as well as my preferences, topping up my coffee several times at breakfast. The turndown service included lining up my makeup on a crisp white flannel by size — it's never been so organised in my life. There were lots of little extras: a complimentary Chinese New Year candy box as it was that time of year, as well as green tea on arrival.
Exercise facilities: There is a whole level devoted to wellness — a spa, gym, pool, with yoga and tai chi sessions available and a registered massage therapist.
What's in the neighbourhood: Step outside and you are practically standing in line for the Peak tram. There's Hong Kong Park just across the road, perfect for a morning coffee and stroll. And the bustling restaurant scene of SoHo and nightlife of Lan Kwai Fong, as well as the closest underground MTR station are about a 10-minute walk away.
The price: Deluxe rooms start around $650 a night while the Signature Suites on the top levels start at $1450.
Perfect for: A luxury stay in a beautiful building that has more character than the usual glass towers of Hong Kong. The stunning design and little extras take it from an enjoyable stay to an extraordinary one.
Contact: niccolohotels.com