A buggy helps but can also get in the way. Ours was clunky, I'll admit, but it was the perfect mobile bed and held a lot of stuff. A buggy has the added benefit of parting the reluctant masses of oncoming foot traffic.

2. If you don't want a pushchair, you will need something to keep the little one close to you, because hand-holding when millions of people are moving en masse is really not advisable.

3. Eat in underground food halls.


4. Get roaming with Google Maps. Trying to find places with names like "3 Chome-3-5 Roppongi", "Minatoku", "Tokyo-to 106-0032" using street maps or signs is impossible.

5. If you do take a buggy, as well as metro maps, check the maps of over-ground and exits in the stations. They show which ones have escalators and elevators so you can find the path of least resistance.

6. Most escalators say buggies are prohibited. Ignore them. We were never told off, not once.

7. Always ask if you can smoke when entering a restaurant so you know what to expect.

8. Supermarket bento boxes and sushi are good. Staff will reheat meals such as katsu chicken in a customised convection oven that can handle the plastic.

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