DESTINATION

AFRICA

EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS

I've dreamt of African safari adventures for a very long time, nearly 50 years in fact: racing through thicketed bush on the chase for an elusive cheetah, photographing sun-kissed lionesses preening or searching earnestly through bushveld to spot the majesty of a kudu antelope.

That's a long time to build up expectations, but at Sabi Sabi private game reserve in South Africa, they were exceeded. Sprawling over 65,000ha bordering Kruger National Park, in some of the nation's most celebrated safari country, this is a place that respects the land and its inhabitants and works hard to conserve it for future generations.

It's all about the wildlife. From twice-daily open vehicle drives and walks, guests encounter creatures small and great in surprising ways, including the feted "Big Five" (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo) and an astonishing array of bird species, 300 of them.

No crowds, no tight schedules, no restricted views, but instead your own spotter and guide and a different adventure each time, at the whim of the wild. The private lands allow off-track access and incredible proximity to animals, like leopards passing so close you could reach out and touch them — but of course, you wouldn't dare.

At night the day's adventures are relived at "camp", though there's not a tent in sight. Little Bush Camp —the most intimate of the four Sabi Sabi lodges — offers five-star luxury and exceptional service, with just six private suites with canopies and inside and outside bathing. Gourmet meals come with free-flowing champagne and chattering monkeys, taken by candlelight or under the stars.

It's where dreams come true.
- Christine Aldred

sabisabi.com

THE NILE, IN STYLE

Sitting on the teak deck, the sun kept from my face by fluttering white canvas curtains, my book Death on the Nile remains unopened on my lap. Instead of reading the book that had been written by Agatha Christie on this very boat and whose movie versions were filmed in situ, I watch families taking their water buffaloes to a grassy island in the middle of the Nile, wave to children who call to their friends to share the excitement, hear the probably 173rd donkey braying on the riverside, and feel a million miles away from life as I have known it for the last 18 months.

The SS Sudan was built in 1911 for the Thomas Cook travel company and has retained its old-world glamour, with wood-clad cabins and suites, teak decks, always-polished copper fire extinguishers, and telephones. The wheels on either side confirm that this is indeed a still operational paddle steamer, offering a step back in time.

Sixty-seven crew set against 23 rooms and suites, guests get pampered throughout their cruise, which takes six days upriver between Luxor and Aswan, or back downriver. There are daily excursions, to the Valleys of the Kings, Queens, and Artisans, to the temples of Abydos and Dendera, the temples of Kom Ombo and Philae, and more, but you always have half a day's sailing on board to enjoy watching the Nile and the life it brings to the desert. No fancy pool, no on-board shop, few people. Instead, pure relaxation in beautiful historic surroundings.
- Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

steam-ship-sudan.com/en

SOUTHERN SUNSETS

There are, I'd wager, few better places to admire an African sunset than the open-air observation deck aboard Rovos Rail, watching the tracks fade into the horizon.

This privately-owned rail company promises the world's most luxurious train, and after a half-dozen journeys with them across Southern Africa I'd struggle to disagree.

Unlike its more contemporary competitor the Blue Train, Rovos Rail prides itself on a sense of Edwardian glamour. Much of the wood-panelled rolling stock dates to the mid-1900s; today revamped and re-engineered to balance vintage charm with modern comforts. On board, you'll find air conditioning and en suite compartments, while top-tier Royal Suites even boast freestanding Victorian baths.

One thing you won't find is Wi-Fi, with guests instead encouraged to dip into the library, chat with fellow travellers at the (all-inclusive) bar, or simply admire the passing scenery from the observation lounges. Daily off-train excursions offer a chance to explore en route, before returning to the wood-panelled dining cars for three-course dinners of South African culinary classics paired with fine wines from Cape vineyards.

Rovos Rail offers itineraries that stretch from a few days to a fortnight, rambling across Southern Africa and as far north as Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. If time's an issue, opt for the classic run across South Africa from Pretoria to Cape Town; through the captivating plains of the semi-desert Karoo to connect the capital city with cosmopolitan Cape Town. You'll enjoy a cross-section of the country, and some of the best sunsets Africa has to offer.
- Richard Holmes

ANTARCTICA

DANCING ON ICE

No adjectives can do justice to this once in a lifetime adventure on a Ponant five-star Antarctica Expedition Cruise.

With only 196 passengers and 156 of the finest staff, this luxurious cruise offers excellent service, delicious cuisine and countless unforgettable moments.

From the time you enter the calm waters of the Antarctic Peninsula after crossing the treacherous Drake Passage, be prepared for seven of the most exhilarating days on the coldest and driest continent on Earth.

My visit in mid-December coincides with the period of 24-hour daylight. Although confusing for my body clock, I don't want to sleep anyway, for fear of missing out.

Twice a day, Zodiac tours are available with on-board marine expedition experts allowing passengers a close-up look at the world's most untouched continent. I take up as many as possible and experience astonishing things such as walking alongside 200,000 nesting penguins, snow and ice-filled islands filled with colonies of elephant, crabeater, Weddell and leopard seals, a variety of birds, as well as mighty humpback whales breaching as though they're auditioning for the latest Cirque du Soleil spectacular.

Seminars are available for the first two days while cruising from Ushuaia Harbour, Tierra del Fuego province, Argentina to the Antarctic Peninsula. By the time we reach Antarctica, I've already seen some of the most incredible mountainous landscapes and ice-filled seas with icebergs the size of city blocks. Humpback and minke whales regularly appear and from my private balcony off my suite I watch in awe as five orca chase a poor little penguin, who narrowly escapes on to a chunk of floating ice.

And this is just the beginning.
- Daniel Resnik

ponantcruises.com

ASIA

FROM HERE TO THERE

The small fair-haired Russian boy said "thank you" in heavily accented English as he handed me a wrapped biscuit. We were travelling on the Trans-Siberian Railway and he'd been practising the phrase after I'd given him a small gift two days earlier.

My journey began in Beijing when I settled into a top bunk in a four-berth compartment feeling a mixture of anxiety and excitement. With basic washing facilities at either end of the carriage and a shared compartment, I knew this Intrepid Travel tour from Beijing to St Petersburg wouldn't be luxurious. But the allure of travelling slowly by train through China, the steppes of Mongolia and the birch forests of Siberian Russia was enough to make me sign up.

Mesmerised by the soothing rocking motion of the train, hours passed in minutes as the train snaked around hills, through plains and past villages, dark smoke billowing from the engine.

I took advantage of scheduled stops, alighting for a brisk walk along the platform. I bought buuz (Mongolian mutton dumplings) and cream cheese-filled blini from women on the platform. I sipped sweetened coffee from a Russian Railways tea glass.

Over 23 days we travelled by overnight train, bus and taxi. We also slept in comfortable hotels, guesthouses and a Mongolian ger. We met locals, ate traditional meals in family homes and explored the ornate stations of the Moscow Metro.

As one reviewer put it, "This is an epic trip. It isn't an easy trip, but definitely one worth taking."
- Joanne Karcz

intrepidtravel.com

WHITE SAND WISHES

If Alice in Wonderland was set in a watery world, then the Maldives would be at the bottom of that rabbit hole. A place of euphoria, with white sand wishes and blue lagoon dreams, the Maldives must be seen to be believed. For can such a place exist like that found in the pages of glossy magazines, picture-perfect postcards or Instagram feeds around the gramosphere?

Yes, it can, and it does. A small country in South Asia, the Maldives is made up of 1192 islands across a chain of 26 atolls that are dispersed in the Arabian Sea of the Indian Ocean. This makes the Maldives one of the most desired locations for island hopping, resort relaxation and disconnection.

Flying into the capital of Male, the kaleidoscope of blues and azures from breathtaking vistas of atolls, coral islands, and lagoons in the middle of the Indian Ocean looks like an artist's pallet has spilled droplets of paints. Each of those droplets is scattered with luxurious resorts and overwater villas. Dive beneath the ocean surface, however, and you will find the beauty of this flawless archipelago.

While diving and snorkelling around the resorts is as easy as stepping off the beach, a traditional Maldivian Dhoni can sail you to uninhabited islands scattered like jewels across blue velvet. Diving and snorkelling these coral reefs will have you descending into the warm waters to be met by an amphitheatre of coral walls teeming with sea life. This is where the true beauty of the Maldives comes alive.
- Kate Webster

visitmaldives.com

SMALL ISLAND, BIG APPEAL

Many Kiwis have probably never heard of Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's big four islands, but to those living in Japan, it's a place you dream about visiting – and I can't wait to discover why.

It's a cool, clear November day when I land in the island's port city of Takamatsu (an 80-minute flight from Tokyo). My first stop is Ritsurin Garden – one of Japan's most renowned gardens, dating back to the 1600s. It's November and there's an explosion of colour across the 75ha of manicured grounds. Golden ginkgo trees and fiery red Japanese maples. Wasen boats float along the glassy lake and I can't imagine a better way to take it all in.

Lunch is at the nearby Sanuki Udon Ueharaya. Udon noodles are eaten at large wooden communal tables. Slurping is seen as a compliment to the local chef, so expect a noisy affair, and a stomach full of the noodles the region is famed for. After lunch, we call into Yashima-ji temple, part of the ancient 88-temple pilgrimage – and an incredible insight into this ancient culture.

Later, I head to Takamatsu's ferry terminal for the 50-minute crossing to Naoshima, known as art island. Don't miss the striking Benesse House Museum, and the Art House Project, where abandoned houses have been turned into art. Think narrow laneways of ancient houses with traditional gardens, and quaint corner cafes.

The next day it's inland to the Iya Valley in western Tokushima Prefecture, about two hours from Takamatsu. The verdant valley is home to three ancient vine bridges the brave-hearted can walk across, and stunning onsen hotels, including Hotel Iyaonsen (with the world's only hot springs accessed via a cable car).

As I head back to the airport, I think about the incense I smelt at the temple, the vibrant colours I saw in the Iya Valley, the honour I felt draped in a traditional haori jacket – and I can now see exactly why Shikoku is the place of dreams.

- Kirstie Bedford

IT IS THE PEOPLE

Beyond Japan's incredible scenery and cultural experiences, my enduring memories come from interactions with its people.

Unfailingly polite, nothing was ever too much trouble for the Japanese people I have encountered on my visits. Being helpful is in their DNA. Should they see you struggling with directions they will approach, politely offering to help, an act of kindness I appreciated regularly when navigating the metropolis of Tokyo.

I've always felt safe in Japan. Often travelling solo, I'd feel at ease hiking a trail from Kurama to Kibune, or evening wanderings along the atmospheric Pontocho St in Kyoto, or exploring the busy downtown districts of Tokyo.

Travel anywhere in Japan easily, quickly and efficiently on the well-organised train network. And nothing beats opening a bento box – the Japanese version of a lunch box - on a Shinkansen (bullet train). Guaranteed to make a fast train trip even more interesting.

I recall the outstanding omotenashi (the Japanese mindset of hospitality) experienced at overnight stays in small regional villages. From the owners of a gassho-style farmhouse at Ainokura in the Gifu Prefecture to the personable connection at Kakurinbo, a 550-year-old Inn at Minobusan, a two-hour train journey from Tokyo, to the generosity of my guesthouse hosts in my funaya, an ancient wooden house over the water in the fishing village of Ine, inside the Kyoto Prefecture. Mostly, little English is spoken in these places, but a smile and a few words of Japanese are all that is needed.
- Jennifer Johnston

japan.travel

IF YOU LIKE PINA COLADAS...

It's 10am, and a coin flip over breakfast has led to paradise. Eschewing a scheduled jungle hike, my friend and I instead paddleboard to a nearby island for a lazy morning of sun-worship, waving fronds of coconut palms lining a translucent bay beckoning like a siren.

We're beaten to the punch, however; by the time we alight on the sand, a Kudanil Explorer staff member has transformed it into a swanky private beach club, complete with day beds and a pop-up bar. We're greeted by the mellifluous sound of ice shaken over rum – "Pina colada, madam?" Don't mind if I do…

It's this pre-emption of every whim that elevates this 10-day journey through Raja Ampat and West Papua in Indonesia to bucket-list level. Located in the heart of the Coral Triangle, these remote waters are the holy grail for divers, an underwater utopia boasting the largest diversity of marine life on Earth. Yet somehow, miraculously, it's managed to escape mainstream tourism; and it's hard to fathom that untouched places like this still exist.

A privately-owned, 50-metre, refurbished oil exploration vessel, Kudanil Explorer cuts a striking figure in the secluded bays. Offered for private charter or customised adventures, it accommodates just 16 guests in eight air-conditioned berths, each with floor-to-ceiling windows and a private terrace. Indoor and outdoor dining areas are scattered over three decks, as well as two bars, a library lounge, a jacuzzi for champagne moments and a tiny spa for an indulgent massage.

But it's nature that's the real star of this luxury cruise. Daily diving and snorkelling are a feast for eyes and soul; while paddling in glass-bottom kayaks reveals a spellbinding panorama, waterfalls and karst cliffs tumbling into coral gardens as hornbills fly overhead in formation. In Triton Bay, majestic whale sharks linger around traditional fishing platforms, unperturbed as we snorkel along their dappled flanks, accompanied by dozens of dolphins keen to join the party. My mind is blown.
- Julie Miller

kudanil.com