Sex & Food is an oddity in that it represents a step forward for Unknown Mortal Orchestra and a simultaneous move backward. A description which, admittedly, makes it sound a bit like they've stumbled and fallen flat on their ass.
They have not. Under the steady guidance of UMO's main man, Ruban Nielson, the band instead prove themselves rock steady and firm-footed. Even as they retreat from the crowd-pleasing, shiny glow of previous album Multi-Love and back into the lo-fi roots of their first two records.
The funk grooves and late 70s stylistic tics remain, but UMO have let that disco-ready sheen get wet and mouldy.
Take How Many Zeros as a prime example. Kicking off with a Billie Jean-style beat, it then floats away on a cloud of muted jazzy chords and a clipped falsetto. Similarly, Not in Love We're Just High and The Internet of Love (That Way) both could have been freshly excavated from Prince's famed vault, dust and all.
But where UMO once funked, they now rock. As with disco, Nielson's reference points remain blissfully rooted in the 70s.
Furious lead single American Guilt possesses an absolute firecracker of a riff as Nielson takes a defibrillator to rock's stopped heart. It's the heaviest they get and really makes you hope they keep the distortion pedal close by in the future.
The sublime Ministry of Alienation is smooth American AM rock, while Everyone Acts Crazy Nowadays and the slippery riff of Major League Chemicals both act as a bridge between the rootsy American style and the stylistic tricks of the Brits.
There's plenty of spicy and weird moments to be found - it opens with a 40-second instrumental - but the album's highlight is as straightforward as it comes.
The low-key funk of Hunnybee bounces happily along on a casually carefree groove and almost serves as a sequel to the band's breakthrough hit Ffunny Ffrends. It's a sweetly catchy song that gets stuck in your head while also slapping a grin on your face.
Just like its namesake, when you put all this together it makes Sex & Food a very pleasurable and highly satisfying album indeed.
Artist: Unknown Mortal Orchestra
Album: Sex & Food
Label: Jagjaguwar/Rhythmethod
Verdict: As essential to a happy life as its title.