Every great city has its defining letterhead, a grand landmark statement, from London's Big Ben to Paris' Eiffel Tower.
Mumbai, or Bombay as we used to call it, is no different. Billed by Britain's The Times newspaper in the early 1900s as "the finest hotel in the East", the striking Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is Mumbai's enduring icon; a masterpiece of colonial architecture blending Moorish, Oriental and Florentine styles.
Opened in 1903 on the edge of the Arabian Sea, the hotel has been on the frontline of much of India's modern history. The Maharajas considered it a second home and a welcome retreat from their formal duties. In World War I, the hotel was converted into a 600-bed hospital. The resplendent dome is made from the same steel that Gustave Eiffel deployed for his tower.
The hotel was the first in India to install a steam elevator, which must have left its guests spellbound. In its formative years, most of the guests arrived by horse-drawn carriage and the carriages were then taken to Wellington Mews, which were later converted into luxury apartments.
Jinnah, the first future leader of India, held court here and, in 1947, the property was home to the architects of Indian Independence. Tragically, three years ago, a terrorist attack caused colossal damage to the hotel and claimed the lives of nearly as many people as the Christchurch Earthquake.
But last year, after a painstaking restoration, Mumbai's grand old lady reopened. The hotel's VIP guest list reads like a Who's Who encyclopaedia. The photograph gallery is a thrill to explore, with President Obama's stay, last November, taking pride of place among the galaxy of luminaries.
This glorious palace deserves a visit, because it's testament to India's resilience. The heritage wing's 297 rooms remain reassuringly classic, with detail-rich interiors.
The brilliantly coloured central staircase, a famous feature of the hotel, and the public areas ooze opulent, old-world touches such as sparkling chandeliers and antiques.
Staying a night or two at the hotel is a one-of-a-kind experience. Premium comforts, great service and a supreme location are sure-bets. But with 11 award-winning dining experiences on offer, you don't need to be an in-house guest to soak up its splendour.
Treat yourself to an aperitif in the wrap-around grandeur of the Harbour Bar. Get your fill of Arabian Sea panoramics from the Sea Lounge, where high tea is served daily, in time-honoured fashion. (British Airways hostesses were originally flown in to pour the tea.) Or, for contemporary tastes, check out the Middle Eastern dishes at Souk, a magically lit restaurant with harbour views; open for lunch and dinner.
Colonial Mumbai
Adjacent to the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, the muscular Gateway of India is a potent monument which has served as a symbolic entry and exit point for Mumbai. Constructed to commemorate the visit of King George V in 1911, the original version was hastily made out of papier mache, with the permanent basalt version completed in 1924. In 1947, it was through this archway that British soldiers left India for the final time. British colonial architecture peppers South Mumbai, exuding a legacy of elegance,
among the high-density of more recent developments.
There are a slew of heritage gems, including a requisite stop at one of the world's busiest train stations, Victoria Terminus. Built in 1887, this sublime Raj-era monument is a riot of splendid arches, soaring domes, buttresses, stained glass and vaulted ceilings. Every day, more than 2.5 million commuters use the station.
Mumbai University has a 128-year-old clock tower, overlooking the cricket oval, which was modelled on London's Big Ben and, across the road, gorgeous old Mumbai High Court is open to the public. Pass by the lavishly ornamental Flora Fountain, built in 1864, and crowned with a statue of the Roman goddess. Another must-see is Mani Bhavan, a museum which was once home to Mahatma Gandhi and houses many of his personal belongings.
Top tips
Tackle Mumbai's clustered heritage sights on foot, or get your hotel to organise a low-cost taxi tour. Treat yourself to Mumbai's benchmark in hospitality, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. For room rates or to check out their dining experiences, visit Tajhotels.com
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