THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 18, 5.52pm
More than almost any other designer, Miuccia Prada offers a true fashion experience with shows that demand more of her audience - emotion and intellect. It is why there is always a buzz to her shows, as the industry anticipates what she will do next and how she will dictate trends for the coming season.
You can feel that excitement as you approach the Prada venue on via Fogazzaro as the crowd bustles past handsome security guards in perfect suits. Brown carpet stairs greet you inside, and as you climb, menacing, moody music adds to the atmosphere. As you reach the top, you see it: surreal indoor dunes in the middle of the room, made from 150 tonnes of lilac-coloured sand.
6.16pm
As late guests are seated, the crowd analyses and interprets every detail they've taken in so far: each a carefully constructed clue as to what's to come, from the invitation - an austere beige plastic-covered linen card - to the canapes (think chocolate squares on dry bread). The purple sand, the brown carpet, the trippy spoken word and wave pre-show soundtrack. What can it all mean?
6.45pm
It's time. The lights come on, the music plays and out walks the first model: Gemma Ward, making a surprise return to the runway after six years. The Australian supermodel, who became famous in 2004 for her doll-like look, opens the show in a double-breasted navy coat with bold top stitching.
6.53pm
Raw, unfinished hems trailing threads, what feel like scraps of vintage fabrics patchworked into dresses and coats, heavy brocades, necklines threaded with diamonds: a feeling of opulence and frugality begins to emerge. There are the signature Prada elements - slightly "off" colours (brown, yellow, green), A-line silhouettes, midi skirt lengths - but mostly the collection displays an appreciation of the beauty of imperfection, craftsmanship and textiles.
Apparently Prada and her team sourced and reproduced 30 brocades dating from the 19th century to the 60s. These felt like clothes that had been treasured for many years, even generations; a make-do-and-mend attitude that has never felt more modern.
7.08pm
What a contrast to go from the raw, imperfect intensity of the show and collection to the high shine and overly styled looks of the street style circus on the street outside afterwards. Many guests headed straight to the next show: the pink Barbie homage at Moschino, complete with rollerskating and exercise "Barbie" models. If ever there were two more different fashion moments - Prada's focus on craftsmanship and clothes to treasure versus Moschino's want it-get-it-now pop culture appropriation - this was it.
• Prada will open its Auckland flagship store on Queen St in November.
- VIVA