Man's best friend is never far from Tessa Chrisp's side, offering companionship on a Rarotongan holiday.
On the side of the road a local boy, Junior, pats a smothering accumulation of dogs. Between licks and lean-ins, Junior pronounces "they say there's more dogs than people on this island". He might be right - it's not only chooks free ranging here on Rarotonga, it's the dogs as well.
Not one for major tourist attractions, I decide to go free range too. Even though you can scooter around the entire island within an hour, there is much to see and do. I prefer 35km/h, while feeling the no-helmet freedom on a scooter, revelling in being an ocean away from OSH's grip. Blink and you miss the best bits, the side-of-the-road stuff. I embark on an ambling impromptu journey, sometimes led by dogs.
As I walk along white sands edged by turquoise waters at beautiful Muri Lagoon, dogs appear from nowhere. One sidles up beside me to see if I want a walking buddy. Lazing about like teenagers on holiday or hanging out away from their parents, these dogs are cool dudes, a law unto themselves, woven unobtrusively into the fabric of this island. It is almost as if the dogs are owned by the entire community.
I had to laugh when I read a volunteer vet said: "One fellow at first refused to let me spay his dog, for if all the dogs were desexed, where would the islanders get more dogs?" You can visit The Esther Honey Foundation, a volunteer Veterinary Care Clinic for South Pacific Animals on the way to Papua Waterfall.
Yes, there are quite a few dogs on the island. The foundation has helped control them, but you can't help loving them. As with so much on the island, they are relaxed company, they are easy to be around and well mannered. One took me fishing. She loved it, stalking the crystal-clear water, nose tucked aiming to catch a fish or crab under her two front paws. Another fluffy-tailed fella was always goofing around. He stood both paws on Alan's chest hoping to entice him out of his holiday sunbathe to come and play.
The dog lying in the shade of a coffee table at Charlie's Beach Cafe and Grill enjoys paddle boarding.
He belongs to Charlie's family who have set up a resourceful shipping container-style cafe, shaded by coconut palms; a deck over white sands fringing the Tikioki Beach and marine reserve.
"Best snorkelling on Rarotonga," says Charlie.
The 25-year-old says the dogs are like locals. "They fish, they jump on paddle boards, they lie around on the beach, they chase the girls - just like the locals."
A local dog takes to the waves with a paddleboarding ride on Rarotonga. Photo / Tessa Chrisp
After snorkelling in the marine sanctuary, seeing giant clams and more variety of fish than in Muri Lagoon, we climb on board our scooter, letting our salted, tangled locks dry in the humid wind.
Stopping at a red-and-white umbrella, we are welcomed into Wayne's colourful world - he's a Rarotongan passionate about fruit who makes seriously good ice creams on the spot.
We rest in the shade, delighting in his knowledge and admiring the diversity of a coconut plant.
"Tree of life," he remarks.
Back on the scooter, the jungle whooshes by looking so lush we decide to park and walk inland.
Finding the historic site of Marae Arai Te Tonga, the map shows we are not far from the Ikurangi Summit track and soon a very jolly honey-coloured dog bounces up to us. He repeatedly runs ahead and stops as if to say "hey, come this way". So we redirect our route and follow him.
He guides us up a driveway all the while stopping to check that we are in pursuit; past private homes, pigs, pawpaw plantations and gardens to the track we might otherwise have missed. There we are joined by his mates, who are barking in a fever of excitement to come on the walk with us.
Later, and more quietly, we are escorted back to our scooter by the same happy entourage of dogs farewelling us, thanking us for the walk and quite possibly for coming to their island. Well, that's the feeling I get.
Things to do
Scootering around Rarotonga? Ride this way.
• Check out Charlie's Beach Cafe and Grill - look for the blue containers in Titikaveka - and go snorkelling in the Tikioki Marine Sanctuary right in front of the cafe. Charlie hires out paddle boards, kayaks and snorkelling gear, they even do night tours and night boarding.
• Take a stroll with Pa's Mountain Hike. Pa has the utmost respect for nature and is a delight to be around. On his cross-island trek, you'll learn about local herbal remedies and ancestral knowledge. To book, call 21079 or email: jillian@pasbungalows.com.
• Cool off with an ice cream. On sunny days, look out for the red-and-white umbrella of Cook Island Rarotongan Fruit Ice Cream just past Apartments Kakera toward Muri. Wayne makes delicious real fruit ice creams right in front of you, adding a unique ingredient of soursop fruit. He also sells fresh organic salad mixes.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct to Rarotonga from Auckland six times per week.
Accommodation: There are many places to stay. Book early and look for package deals. We rented a private home through holidayhouses.co.nz.
Hiring a car: See Polynesian Rental Cars.
Further information: See cookislands.travel.