Overlander: Long train runnin'

There's a lunch stop for hungry travellers at National Park Station. Photo / Tranz Scenic

Auckland to Wellington by train for a special fare of $49. The deal sounded irresistible and - like much about The Overlander actually - something out of yesteryear.

Sure, our start point at Britomart was state-of-the-art, gleaming, but the atmosphere was a bit of an exercise in nostalgia. We stood, a little sleepily, in a queue for 20 minutes admiring the setting. The online ticket isn't a boarding pass and passengers are required to arrive at least 20 minutes before departure time of 7.25am.

"Darling," the rotund woman in a navy uniform, said cheerfully, "I can fix you up. I'll put you both in the last carriage, darling."

The back of the train is glass all round with a lounge area and table where passengers can admire the receding landscape. But at this early hour we were more interested in the small food bar in the central carriage which - when open - dispenses coffee in cardboard cups. Unfortunately, it wasn't open.

By the time the train rattled off we weren't the only ones looking for a
caffeine hit. The half-hour wait till the bar opened didn't kill us but seemed unnecessary.

We knew we were in for the long haul. Auckland to Wellington by train has taken 12 hours for at least 50 years and it would be a pity to change. The snail's pace is not just because of the number of stops - 15-17 depending on requests - or the narrow gauge. The terrain through a large scenic section in the middle of the island is rugged and tortuous and the track twists and turns.

So we settled in to the relaxing lilt of wheels clicking on rails and enjoyed the view, into back gardens, so different from the one you get from the road.

Initially, the seats weren't too uncomfortable but as they don't recline you're stuck in one position and unless you bring your own, there's no pillow. In the net in front of us was a strange metal object that resembled a tray. An astute neighbour worked out that the middle arm rest has a top that lifts, revealing slots the tray fits into.

These days commentaries on journeys are par-for-the-course. There was nothing much to say about Papakura or Pukekohe apart from assuring us of the necessity of stopping for the crew to carry out passenger work.

Not long after came views of the mighty Waikato river as the line
followed alongside State Highway 1. The geography and history lessons were interesting enough, with the background to Ngaruawahia as the home
of the Maori King, and we acknowledged the beautifully tended Maori
cemetery on the hillside, visible to the left of the train.

Frankton is the name of Hamilton's railway station. Ten minutes before our arrival we were warned that the food bar was closing and would reopen after we left. To avoid competition?