League struggles to survive in Wales yet key aspects of the game are thriving in their rugby team.
Five years ago, my mailbag filled in an instant after I referred to Wales as the village idiots of world rugby.
With no apology, that was an apt description of the Welsh game at that time, as a team once filled with glorious players kept dabbling with disrepair and disrespect. Wales now have a team that wants to strike during games instead of before them.
Without knowing the state of the Welsh administration, it is abundantly clear that their team is among the best organised at the World Cup.
That old Welsh magic may be long gone - their pivotal player is an inside centre who is built and runs like a No 8. The new magic is working pretty well, though.
Wales' comprehensive quarter-final victory over Ireland was a coaching victory if ever you saw one. Warren Gatland take a bow. Wales were very modern while Ireland were all flares and orange couches with an old-style game that lacked gifted players to make it work. Coach Declan Kidney was a distant second in what was supposed to be an even encounter.
Shaun Edwards, one of British league's finest, is the Welsh defensive coach and doing a superb job so far. This may not have been so evident on the small screen, but his players were strung across the field in an almost impenetrable, advancing red line that never faltered.
There were often 11 players evenly spaced on both sides of any ruck and a sweeper behind, leaving just three in the pile-ups. Ireland couldn't number up like that, and left a giant blindside hole down which Mike Phillips flung himself for a try.
As often happens in league, bad passes are the best passes because they tempt defenders out of formation or confuse them. A rough pass try helped draw Ireland level, yet Wales always had the upper hand.
Wales won the numbers game. League rudiments require forward momentum before there is any point in flinging the ball wide. Ireland - who also have a defence coach from league ranks - did not defend so smartly. They didn't drive through the centre consistently or quickly enough.
The stout red line will greet the magical French in the semifinal. At their best, Marc Lievremont's team can break this system down, but they might also unravel in frustration.
France showed their gift for passing in traffic against England. Their intricacies and organic game sweep the best of opponents aside. Tricky French offloads will test Wales and clever short kicks may also do so if the bounce goes the chasers' way.
But France faltered a little against the bumbling English, while Wales are very fit and kept firing despite using the relentless up and back defensive line.
Wales found the best places to punch holes, with enormous centre Jamie Roberts a thick end at the front of this wedge. At one point, Wales bunched a posse behind him. Wales know their strengths, and play to them over and over although they would benefit if young wing George North is more prominent in the semifinal.
France are the Northern Hemisphere team best armed to win the World Cup final, yet a feeling says they won't get the chance.
Some World Cup observations
* South African Craig Joubert, who controlled the Wales-Ireland game, gets my vote as the world's best referee. He operates without baggage, and in a minimal, yet efficient way.
* Wellington is vibrant, full of inner-city charm and soul. Cafes, record shops, character book stores, secondhand clothing shops, little markets - Wellington is the works-burger and everything is handy. The World Cup has worked wonderfully in Wellington, but ...
* Wellington stuffed up by building a circular football stadium. They already had the Basin Reserve so why-oh-why did they go down this route. The football ground isn't the worst in the world, but the atmosphere and viewing quality are marginal.
* The Wellington stadium mob also played music during the rugby. Tacky.