From Marianne Faithfull to Courtney Love, little girl lost has always been a favourite look of the rock chick. Patti Smith championed androgynous appeal and Stevie Nicks led the free spirits. More recently a reworking of retro glam, from Amy Winehouse to Adele and our own Kimbra, has been the rage.
But the enduring idea of a rock 'n' roll woman consists of bed hair and smudgy eyes. The trick is to make this strong and spectacular rather than silly and smudged. We show you how, on the eve of the Vodafone New Zealand Music Awards.
The influence of celebrity culture and red carpet coverage has smartened standards of event dressing, leading to a more glamorous look. The music industry also boasts enough strong, spirited women with individual style to ensure an interesting rather than Oscar-imitating turnout. The likes of Boh Runga can be counted on to wear local fashion well and, while you can count on some female musos to wear jeans at the Tuis, they're becoming as rare as vinyl.
To step into the spotlight, you'll need a standout dress, a steady hand and the genes of a true performer. We've asked the official hair and makeup sponsors for the awards, Structure and Smashbox, how to go about emulating our shoot. They will be styling presenters Shannon Ryan, who will be dressed by designer Turet Knuefermann, and Ben Boyce, dressed by Gibson.
Knuefermann says your outfit will always look good if you feel great, so getting your appearance right will ensure a powerful presence. Start with strong, smouldering eyes, shaded to create wings and worn with wild hair to complement the textured look of designs like hers that incorporate sequins, luxurious silks and boucle fabrics.
Mixing music and fashion influences strikes the right chord in rocking a style with an edgy, yet contemporary, feminine feel.
"Inspired by runway looks, this combination gives a contemporary feminine feel for what promises to be a great night out," she says.
Messy, tousled locks that have a grungey, out-of-bed style recall the unkempt rocker. For the Tuis, Structure hair products were the logical choice, with the new range by hair experts Joico being about fierce styling.
To begin, dampen dry hair using Structure Beach Spray ($24) for volume and texture. Using fingers, scrunch hair into random curls and blow dry using a diffuser, continuing to scrunch hair as you dry. Once dry, extensions can be added (as with our model) for extra length and volume.
Apply Structure Dust Matte Powder ($28) to the roots of the hair and work in, using fingers. This will give instant uplift. Using a small amount of dust in your hands, work into the mid-lengths of the hair for texture and grip to complete the tousled look. Finish the look spray hair with Structure Finish Hairspray ($24).
Keep skin beautiful and matte with long-lasting coverage from Smashbox, a brand born out of the needs of the entertainment industry for performance and bold, statement looks. Layer a flawless look with Photofinish Primer ($76), Studio Skin Foundation and Halo Mineral Powder.
Brows are naturally groomed and lightly defined with Brow Tech.
Eyes are where the action is. On our model we used Image Factory Shadow Liner in Metallic Bronze ($46) to start creating a smokey eye, winging and blending it out with bronzy browns from the Image Factory Palette in Muse ($65).
To create the perfect winged shape with the liner, try tilting you head back while looking into the mirror. This way you can keep both eyes open while applying your eye makeup, which will minimise creasing on the eyelid and you can see where you are working.
Use Jet Set Liner in Black right around the eyes before coating lashes with multiple coats of Full Exposure mascara($52), especially for the bottom lashes. Tip: To create super-dramatic lashes, apply one coat of Full Exposure mascara, dust Halo Mineral Powder on top, then apply more mascara. The powder will give extra volume and super thick lashes.
Cheeks are finished in Blush Rush in Paradise, highlighted and contoured with the Smashbox Contour Palette. Lips are subtly enriched in Matte Latte Lipstick ($49).
Stockists: Structure from selected salons, for stockists ph 0800 456 426. Smashbox from Ponsonby Rd concept store and selected Life pharmacies, details and online.
Add an edge to your look by trying extroverted beauty extras
1. Estee Lauder Pure Color Velvet Lipstick in Violet Crush $57.
From a limited edition collection called Violet Underground, this lipstick is part of Tom Pecheux's glam rock take on high fashion. "Women can play dress up with colour and become a character that encompasses mystery, opulence, sex and confidence," the creative director of makeup says. Try the Black Iris nail colour or the five-colour eye palette to bring out your inner vamp. (Department stores and selected pharmacies).
Pecheux says as well as a full face statement with bold colour on eyes, lips and nails, the look can be softened for every day. "I love a nude face and eye with mascara and a simple black eyeliner, it is very pretty. You can also play it up with a dark lip or a bold eye for a sophisticated and sultry glam look."
2. M.A.C Face and Body Foundation $60.
M.A.C Face and Body Foundation is a favourite backstage beauty item, used to create seamless skin on models and actors. It is also perfect if you're heading out on the town in a revealing little number and want to ensure your face, neck and decollete match. Now the professionals' long-wearing secret weapon, once restricted to the M.A.C Pro range, is at all M.A.C counters in 13 shades.
Amber D, M.A.C's senior artist in New Zealand says the product is especially great for women who don't like to look like they have too much foundation on. "It gives beautiful lightweight coverage that can be built up when needed, but still looks like skin."
3. Tokyo Milk Dark Lip Elixir in Cherry Bourbon $20.
Keep lips soft with balm, this one wouldn't look out of place on his or her bedside table. (From World beauty stores.)
4. Orly Magnetic FX in Paint on Electron $29.99.
One of a new metallic polish range from Orly that comes with a cunning magnetised tool that can be waved over the nail before it dries to draw the gunmetal grey lacquer into a unique pattern. Gimmicky fun for those who can't get enough of playing with polish. (From department stores and selected pharmacies.)
5. M.A.C Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash $48
Take the big brush approach to battable long lashes with an enriched blacker than black mascara pigment. (From Smith & Caughey's and M.A.C Britomart, St Lukes and Botany.)
6. Nars Duo Eyeshadow in Marie-Galante $72.
Purple and inky blue combine in this palette for adventurous eyes. Keep other makeup delicate, although these Nars shadows are finely milled so are easily blended to avoid a too heavy-handed bruised look. (From Mecca Cosmetica stores.)
7. Revlon Nail Art French Mix in All the Rage $17.50.
Purple and green vials of enamel sit either end of this screw-together tube which, with its two brushes, is designed for at-home French polish applications. One of Revlon's growing range of clever nail products, the French Mix combo comes in this and subtler shades. Look out in a month or so for neon and shatter combinations in the same cylinder shape. (Farmers and selected pharmacies.)