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Don Kavanagh: More to malt after all

By Don Kavanagh
9:30 AM Monday Jul 2, 2012
Whisky doesn't necessarily have to be served straight in a nice glass. Photo / Visit Britain

Whisky doesn't necessarily have to be served straight in a nice glass. Photo / Visit Britain

I've often been accused of being a snob about whisky. It's a fair call, although I would point out that I'm not as snobbish as some about the great spirit. Some people refuse to acknowledge blended whiskies as being worthy of respect and some complete fanatics refuse to countenance Irish whiskey as a drink at all.

But when it comes to drinking whisky I've tended to stick to malts - neat or with a drop of water.

This isn't necessarily snobbery, but I've always had an issue with drowning really good spirits of any sort in fizzy sugar-water. I've often begged people not to put coke into malts and I've even stared aghast at bartenders who offer me ice in my malt. That's because single malts all have an individual flavour and no two taste quite the same.

The type of barley used, the water, the size and shape of the stills and the barrels they age in all combine to give a distinct flavour to each malt and I hate to lose that in a drink.

However, I've been rethinking that after a couple of interesting sessions. The first, at the Tasting Shed in Kumeu, was a revelation. It was a food and whisky night where the whisky was used not as an accompaniment but as an ingredient. I've had whisky and food plenty of times, but whisky in food was a bit special.

Talisker smoked salmon, pheasant with Cragganmore sprayed on it and the dark, brooding and distinctly medicinal Lagavulin used in a dessert combining apples, quince and Roquefort cheese proved to me that whisky doesn't necessarily have to be served straight in a nice glass.

The other session was a cocktail experiment at Racket Bar, where we tasted malts straight and then used them in cocktails.

Ordinarily I'd go straight for the blended stuff for cocktails, but the individual flavours came across well in such concoctions as a tobacco-infused Old Fashioned. So I'll admit that I actually do like single malts in cocktails.

Whisky has always been an adaptable drink, so experiment with new flavours and you'll find a new world of ways to enjoy your old favourites.

By Don Kavanagh

- Herald on Sunday

Big T (New Zealand) | 10:21AM Monday, 02 Jul 2012
That's good to hear. I've tried to get into enjoying single malts but the simple fact of the matter is, when I'm drinking something that is 40%+ alcohol straight, I find it hard to taste much beyond a strong burning sensation. I really want to enjoy the unique flavours but they're hidden somewhere behind all of that alcohol that my palate really struggles to process.
Ian B. (New Zealand) | 01:15PM Monday, 02 Jul 2012
You are not alone - there are plenty of whiskey experts who counsel that a dash of water "opens up" the layers of complexity in a good malt.
Water, just water.
GG () | 02:41PM Monday, 02 Jul 2012
ROOM temperature water can make a world of difference, and it can be even up to a 1/3 water with some single malts. Simple way is just add a little at a time until you find a ratio that you like for that scotch, if its too much water then add a bit more scotch back in
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