South Island: Heaven is a railway ride (+photos)

The journey from Christchurch to Picton takes in the expected expanse of Pacific coast and multiple bridges and tunnels.

The drive from Akaroa to Christchurch in the early morning had its hair-raising moments. Travelling unfamiliar roads in the dark with a train to catch isn't the best way to start the day. But as dawn broke over Christchurch and it became clear we'd make it in time, stress gave way to anticipation. I had wanted to do the TranzCoastal ever since I'd driven from Christchurch to Kaikoura about five years ago and seen the track that hugs the shore threading its way through a warren of short tunnels. I'd imagined sitting in a carriage and taking in the coastal vista would be impressive.

We weren't disappointed. From the moment the TranzCoastal hits the coast at Claverley, the view - Pacific expanse, black sand, piled driftwood, rugged rocks, seal colonies, flailing kelp, foaming surf and spray - is a relaxing meditation of sea meets land meets sky. Maybe it's something to do with the motion of trains, but clacking along while staring into the ocean void is mesmerising.

The flitting in and out of the coastal tunnels is a reminder that, as well as providing a view from heaven, this track is also an impressive feat of engineering. The longest (975m) of the 21 tunnels on the line goes through Haumuri Bluff just north of the Okarahia viaduct, which at 21m above the Okarahia stream bed also makes quite a sight.

I loved the river crossings - the wide shingle and pumice delta of the Kahutara where you get the first views of the Seaward Kaikoura range. And, just after Kaikoura, the 470m long Hapuku River bridge comprising 23 arches and built in 1940. I make a note to come back one day and do the trip again in winter because I'd like to see how the snow-capped peaks of the surrounding Kaikoura ranges add another dimension to this majesty.

Then there's the mighty Clarence River - also known as Waiau-toa (the male river) - which has stories to tell about a shipwreck at its mouth (the Taiaroa in 1886) and a famous UFO sighting in 1978, but you won't hear any of them in the train's commentary which is distressingly bland. Sample: "The Clarence River is well known for its white water rafting at the upper reaches of the river." Or: "The place we're going through is Waipara. Waipara is one of the fastest growing parts of the country for the growing of the grapes."

Sadly the TranzCoastal doesn't supply any maps or information about the places you're travelling through, so if you want to learn about your journey as you go, I suggest you pack your own reading material.

Something like On the TranzCoastal Route by Geoffrey Churchman will give you the basics, but it would have been nice to have something more substantial. The place names along this route - Kaiapoi, Eyreton Junction, Flaxton, Southbrook, Rangiora, Ashley, Sefton, Balcairn - all beg to tell their settlement story.

Don't expect too much of the food either. We departed Addington station at 7am sharp and immediately settled into that blissful state that only train travel can give - sitting and staring out the window while the world rattles by. But we were starving and the cafe didn't open until we had trundled through the Christchurch suburbs of Riccarton, Bryndwr, Papanui and crossed the Waimakariri River. It was about there that we opted for microwave warmed pancakes and maple syrup ($4.50) which were a bit doughy but nevertheless stopped the stomach rumbling. Later I hazarded a toasted sandwich ($4) which was a mistake.

But you can forgive a lot when you have scenery. As we left the coast we passed through farmland - sometimes lush green, sometimes rye-grass brown with patches of purple borage, occasional beehives and indifferent cattle.

Then we hit Lake Grassmere, a series of lagoons covering about 1500ha and protected from open sea by a barrier of beach sand dunes. It's an ideal location for salt production by solar evaporation which has been going on there since 1943. We took in the surreal landscape of salt piles and ponds of pinkish hue (apparently caused by algae) from the viewing car - open to the winds and not unlike a cattle truck - as it lurched around a horseshoe bend.

It was an unexpected bonus to a journey that was over all too quickly when we arrived at Blenheim, at 11.45am - on time and content.

*Chris Barton rode the TranzCoastal as a guest of Tranz Scenic.

The train travels between Picton and Christchurch daily.
Details: railnewzealand.com/Transcoastal.html