Turangi: The little town that could ...

Tokaanu's extraordinarily long wharf reaching out into Lake Taupo is now being refurbished.

About 10 or so years ago I spent a few days in Turangi on the southern shore of Lake Taupo. I was on an assignment for the Herald. I wish I could say the story involved fishing in a town that boldly asserts it is the Trout Fishing Capital of the World but, in deference to how many people are dedicated to that sport, I admit my job was somewhat less serious than that.

I was there to write an investigative profile of Turangi as The Little Town That Should Have but Hadn't.

On paper Turangi had much going for it: located beside that lake and near the Tongariro River famous for its trout; within quick striking distance of the ski-fields and mountains; just up the road from a thermal region; halfway between Auckland and Wellington ...

But at the time the place was pretty shabby. Petty crime was endemic, said the local cops, property values were low and holding, and one of the banks had just pulled out. Turangi was a town with a great future behind it.

But recently I was back in the area ... and what a difference a decade or so can make.

Although still far from realising its true potential, Turangi seemed to be alive: there were nice cafes; property prices of some places had tripled in the past five years; an enormous supermarket was under construction; the bright and informative Information Office was stacked with brochures about the many local attractions; the excellent Maori Shop offered high-quality cultural artworks and souvenirs; and I had such an enjoyable dinner at Kaimanawa Lodge - in a warm and cosy room which seated only 20 - that I was happy to buy the chef a drink.

I liked Turangi very much - but ironically this time I wasn't staying there. I was a few kilometres down the road in tiny Tokaanu, a place much as I remember it from all those years ago ... but one also going ahead in its own quiet way.

The new marina is impressive and has further opened up this largely undeveloped and unexplored shore of that beautiful lake; the Tokaanu Hotel seemed larger than I recalled (but just as lively, friendly and slightly volatile near closing time); and a few kilometres down the road is the high-end Lakeland House, a restaurant with a relaxing lake frontage and a menu to drool for.

I never expected to see something quite as classy as Lakeland House in this financially depressed area. Clearly something is happening around here, and given the beauty of the location it is long overdue. My guess is developers and investors have found this side of the lake and cannot believe their luck.

I stayed at the very reasonably priced Tokaanu Lodge Motel in a quiet room with a mezzanine, good shower (and how underrated is a good shower?) and Sky TV. The lodge has its own private freshwater and thermal pools on site, although if you want more public bathing the Tokaanu Thermal Pools are just a five-minute walk down the road.