Call it convict couture if you like but Australian Fashion Week kicked off with an absolute killer collection.

Whether it be haute handcuffs, bondage chic or shackled style, renowned designer Toni Maticevski showed clothes that were total perfection.

And no doubt his exquisitely bejewelled accessories - stone-encrusted back jewels that cascaded to handcuffs and some unique "mouth" jewels - will be derided by some and celebrated as "fashion art" by others.

Designed by Ryan Storer, the jewels will certainly divide. But the Maticevski clothes - a designer often referred to as our Alexander McQueen equivalent - certainly won't as he continues to become a bigger player on the local and international fashion circuit.

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A model parades a creation on the runway by Australian designer Toni Maticevski. Photo / Getty
A model parades a creation on the runway by Australian designer Toni Maticevski. Photo / Getty

Maticevksi showed airy, voluminous pieces (that's fashion speak for not-too-body-hugging) that included skirts, gowns and mighty sexy draped bustiers in shades of black, white, gold and power-packed shade of burnt yellow.

Judging by the reaction of the front row (aka the "frow") it was one of his best collections yet. And the heels? Heaven for high-heel aficionados.

Having covered fashion collection for many years, I've seen how designers continue to grow. Or slow. And Maticevski is certainly NOT slowing down.

His attention to detail is second to none and even when the pieces are stripped away from their runway styling, yes, you would wear them. And that's something in this world of "shock" frocks.

Fashion, like film, music and all layers of pop culture has to be inventive and on top of the zeitgeist, otherwise it becomes so boring and bland that the likes of fashion weeks around the world may as well not exist.

This year, the Mercedes-sponsored Australian fashion week has grouped together days of designers who have similar aesthetics but are all attempting to sell their "resort" collections to both local and international buyers and media.

For many years, some fashion weeks have been, quite frankly, a chance for a whole lot of posers to hang around for free champagne, hoping to be photographed by, well, whoever wanted to snap them.

Bloggers Tash Sefton and Elle Ferguson pose outside the event. Photo / Getty
Bloggers Tash Sefton and Elle Ferguson pose outside the event. Photo / Getty

Now, it is business. And whether that is a plethora of bloggers - the good, the bad and the narcissists - just taking shots of themselves in a zillion sponsored frock posts or whether serious 24/7 media and editors are just trying to get the job done to inform their readers, watchers and followers, the mood is much more measured and grown-up.

With Barangaroo's Cutaway venue being the site of the first show from Maticevski, there did seem to be more posers outside the venue than I've seen for a long while - an extraordinary sandstone backdrop did make for genius Insta shots - but for many of the guests it was pure, business as usual.