Picture / Nicola Topping

Picture / Nicola Topping

Everyone knows that everyday Italian red wine moved away from merely low-priced chianti in wicker-covered, big-bottomed bottles years ago - but the question on wine drinkers' lips now is: where next? The answer lies mostly in the south, including Sicily, Sardinia and the heel of the stylish Italian boot, Puglia. These top 10 red wines come mostly from the south of Italy. They are the best of the bunch under $20 tasted both formally in line-ups from samples sent in, as well as less formally with Italian wine producers visiting New Zealand this year.

2003 Lamura Nero D'Avola $9-$10 (Best Buy)

There are other wines that rate more highly than this alongside the rest of the range featured in this story, but Lamura makes the grade for two good reasons. First, the price is great value. And second, this wine was made with grapes grown in Europe's sizzling 2003 vintage, giving this Sicilian red even more deliciousness and drinkability than it usually has. Expect fresh, fruity flavours, a light body and lingering spicy finish.

EAT: Mushroom risotto.

2003 Pasqua Lapaccio Primitivo Salento $17-$18

DNA testing shows that primitivo is not the direct parent grape to California's famous zinfandel, although there is a connection between the two. The best primitivos from Italy have far more interesting savoury flavours than mere tutti-frutti sweetness that zinfandel usually offers. It is also, thankfully, far lower in alcohol - between 12.5 to 13 per cent is standard. And since primitivo is the ninth most-planted grape variety in Italy (according to Jancis Robinson's Guide to Wine Grapes), there is plenty of it about. This is one of the best in New Zealand, offering spicy, savoury and light-fruit flavours.

EAT: Pan-fried lamb's fry with bacon and tomato.

2003 Pasqua Montepulciano D'Abruzzo $12-$13

Not all Montepulciano is labelled as such - anything you see with the words rosso conero and rosso piceno usually contains this widely planted Italian red grape too. This is outstanding value for money under $15 and a brilliant with-food wine because of its light-to-medium body and the earthy flavours that make it easy to match with almost any Italian-derived food.

EAT: Risotto al valpolicella, also known as risotto with red wine finished with parmigiano and flatleaf parsley.

2001 Canaletto Montepulciano D'Abruzzo $17-$19

Another fantastically good value Montepulciano, again from the Abruzzi, although a step up in taste (and price, obviously) to the wine above. It's the chocolate/mocha flavours here and rounded body that give it huge appeal, but don't be fooled. This is a bone-dry red wine, brilliant drinking on its own or with meaty winter food.