The renowned Pumpkin by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Photo / Gail Orgias Expand

The renowned Pumpkin by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Photo / Gail Orgias

It's not quite the Holy Grail, but somehow standing at last on the jetty in front of the renowned Pumpkin by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, we feel the same sense of achievement. It's an oversized 2m orange squash with black polka dots inspired by the polka-dot hallucinations that Kusama has experienced since childhood. The effect is surreal, rather like this place.

The journey to get to Naoshima Island hasn't been easy, involving a careful coordination of train and ferry schedules, but surprisingly, we have had little trouble. Japanese people are only too happy to help if you look lost.

The island is the brainchild of Siochiro Fukutake of the Benesse Corporation, owner of Berlitz International, who wanted to turn Naoshima into a world-class celebration of nature, art and culture. It's an interesting contrast with the fact that the metal refining industry, on which the island economy is based, has destroyed much of the natural environment.

On arrival at the island we are checked into a room in the Park, which opened in 2006, one of the few wooden buildings designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando - think minimal - which overlooks a terrace and garden with the backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea.

With only a short time to see everything, we quickly pick up an exhibit map and walk around some of the outdoor art works while it is still daylight. It's an impressive line-up that includes pieces by Walter de Maria, George Ricky and Shinro Ohtake.

Next day we walk the coastline where there are artworks everywhere, including the "cultural melting pot", a communal outside Jacuzzi surrounded by totemic volcanic stones.

From there we head up the hill to the Chichu Art Museum, not entirely visible from the outside because the architect, Ando again, has designed the building beneath the ground to preserve the landscape and fit in with the hillside site.

We descend through a series of dimly lit passageways where all the walls are tilted at a disorientating 6-degree angle. The selection of work is restrained and impressive: three artworks by Walter de Maria, James Turrell and Claude Monet. The most memorable work is in the Monet Gallery with his 6m long Water Lily painting.

But before we enter an attendant instructs us to take off our shoes and put on a pair of slippers before stepping onto a "carpet" of 700,000 2cm marble cubes. The combination of the filtered light and the lack of distraction makes for a powerful experience.

On our last day we take the bus to view the six Art House projects in Honmura village. Old village houses have been converted into art spaces to show artworks of Japanese and international artists. We walk up the narrow path that zigzags the hillside to view the Go'oh Jinja shrine by Hiroshi Sugimoto. This is where the shrines and temples are mainly sited and the work is a redesign of the original shrine.