It was the white collars and sublime colors of Vermeer's masterpiece The Girl with the Pearl Earring on the mood board for Valentino. Using the Flemish masters as a starting point, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered a more varied silhouette than last season in vase, trapeze, tulip and column-shaped. It was a welcome change. Short-skirts and some sporty looks with a cool circular edge pattern in red, pale pink, green and blue signalled a slight relaxing for the house known for its austere edge. But this is Valentino, and the high white Flemish-style collar and frequent full-length sleeves ensured this was not forgotten. Still, not all the looks worked. A red dress with white fur collar looked overly theatrical - but this was unimportant, given the show's rich pickings.
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