Clothes as body armour was the concept behind Jean Paul Gaultier's rather dizzying Paris show. A play on voluminous layers of leather, fur, silks, chiffon and even knits - both hanging and enveloping the body - constructed a protective silhouette over models. It all made for a varied collection with some great looks, but one that was frustratingly hard to pin down. Graphic 80s elements, such as Polaroid-type prints, followed a long sheer chiffon dress in eggplant with '70s pleats. Long stripy scarves accompanied a tartan dress. And studded leather bustier tops with '50s peplums could easily have come from another collection altogether. Gaultier explained backstage: "It was also the idea of patchwork."